MICHAEL KRIKORIAN, JR.

NEW YORK TIMES SUNDAY MAGAZINE,  "LIVES"

November 25, 2007

The Namesake

Back in 1985, while working at Hughes Aircraft in Long Beach, Calif., I met a fine young woman named Addie. She worked in a different department, but whenever I saw her, I’d flirt with her. Eventually she became my girlfriend. I was a fixture at her mother’s house in the Fruit Town ’hood where Addie lived with her two sons. It was known as Fruit Town because of the names of the streets — Cherry, Peach, Pear — and it was one of the roughest neighborhoods in Compton, home of the Fruit Town Piru gang, one of the original gangs in the confederation known as the Bloods.

It was during this time that the crack epidemic was at its inglorious height. There were dealers up and down Cherry Street, a narrow lane of tattered two-bedroom homes. My girlfriend became hooked on crack. Some nights she wouldn’t come home. But I stayed with her and tried in vain to get her to stop. When you love someone who is on crack, you can’t help trying to get them to quit.

Like the fool I was, I continued to have unprotected sex with her. She became pregnant. I wondered if I was the father. Addie swore tearfully I was. When the baby was born, he didn’t really look like me, but he did have a bit of a hooked nose like mine. I put my trust in that nose.

Addie named the boy Michael Krikorian Jr. For the first two years of his life, I bought almost every sip of Similac, slurp of food and batch of diapers. Finally one day, Addie’s sister Kathy called me an idiot and told me he wasn’t my kid. Something I knew deep down. Eventually Addie admitted it to me. Still, the kid didn’t have a real father, so I continued to help out. (The biological father was a dealer up the street. He died eight years ago from a heart attack.)

Even after Addie and I split, I would still drop in on Li’l Mike. When he saw me walk in the door, he’d get this really big smile on his face, rush over and punch me in the leg. But eventually the visits faded, and the last time I saw Mike he was maybe 6 or 7 years old. Then last summer, Addie called. I hadn’t spoken to her in years. Michael, now 19, had been arrested and charged with a gang-related murder.

One morning a few weeks later, I went over to the notorious Men’s Central Jail, where half a dozen inmates have been killed in the last few years. I got in the dreaded line of visitors who wait outside to see loved ones. You really do have to love the person who’s incarcerated to get in that damn line. It felt as long as a football field.

Michael Jr., I learned from Addie, had joined the Neighborhood Compton Crips. As I waited in line, I wondered where Li’l Mike would be today if I really were his father and had raised him. And I wondered where I would be if it hadn’t been for my own father. Maybe I’d be there, too. I got into trouble twice as an adult, and both times my dad came to my rescue.

After about 90 minutes outside, I was let into the jail’s waiting room — a depressing place with flies and swarms of little kids running around. Finally, after another hour and a half, a deputy called out Michael’s name.

I went to Row F, Seat 14, and there he was, waiting on the other side of a pitted glass partition. He looked good — lean and muscular, like a cornerback or a wide receiver. Li’l Mike is now 6-foot-2, 205 pounds.

He looked at me as if to say: “Why you sitting here? You must have the wrong seat.” I just sat there looking at him. Slowly, the past came back: a lopsided grin, then a smile, then the big smile I remember. That recognition was sweet. It took a minute for the phones to work, so we just kept staring at each other. Then the phones came on.

“Do you know my name?” I asked him.

He just started laughing. “Yeah,” he said. “You got a cool name.”

We talked about his life — his brothers, his schooling, his plans if the case goes his way. He asked me to send him a certain book, but it had to be a paperback. I said I would. I told him I was sorry I didn’t have any cash that day to leave for him. “That’s all right,” he said with a warm, sincere smile. “The visit is greatly appreciated.” I said something stupid like, “Hang in there,” and then put my left fist up to the glass. His fist met mine.

As I walked outside into the fresh air, I thought about him sleeping in that jail. I prayed he wouldn’t be found guilty, though the trial wouldn’t be for months. I figured I’d go back and visit him again. Damn that damn line.

 

Hit 'n Run Becomes Double Homicide in South Central

WRONG CORNER, WRONG TIME 

September 5, 2013

I was trying to think of a word to describe the latest double homicide in South-Central Los Angeles, but couldn't come up with anything appropriate, so I'll just relate briefly what happened. 

Early Sunday morning, there was a hit-and-run car crash.  The guy that got hit, sped after the guy that drove away. It apparently began a wild chase. Barreling west on 50th Street from Flower Street heading toward Figueroa, the "Hit" car caught up with the "Run" car, cutting him off so the two vehicles came to an abrupt, screeching halt. At least one driver, maybe both, exited their vehicle.

It just so fatefully happened that seeing all this commotion at 4:55 a.m. was a gang member hanging near 50th and Figueroa streets. Thinking the two cars were together and about to attack his 'hood, the guy grabbed a shotgun and blasted the two drivers to death.

"Some random gangster shot-gunned them both," said veteran LAPD homicide detective Chris Barling who has just about seen it all.  "It was definitely different. That's for sure. We're thinking the shooter must have thought the two cars were together and sees them driving crazy, slam to a stop and get out and he figures they're going to attack him."

Wednesday afternoon a suspect, Derrick Henry, was arrested for the killings, Barling wrote on his Twitter account. @77thhomicidecop.  Henry, 18, is scheduled to be arraigned Friday.  

The Los Angeles County Coroner's office said Gilbert Ralph Montano, 24, from Rosamond in Kern County died from a shotgun blast to his head and Anthony Smallwood, 40, of Los Angeles died of a shotgun wound to his torso. 

Police are searching for a suspect. Anyone with information can call LAPD gang homicide at (213) 485-1385

 


 

Go Go Hong on Italian Culture

A month ago, LIz "Go Go" Hong stayed with me and Nancy Silverton in Panicale, Umbria for one week.  While Nancy was in charge of the food, I became sort of Go Go's personal  Minister of Italian Culture.*

The following is a question/answer with Go Go and Krikorian Writes on her cultural experience during what she has called "the greatest trip of her life"  

 ******************

Krikorian Writes - After being home a month, what sticks out culturally from your trip to Italy? What will you keep in your cultural spirit?

Go Go  -   Umm. That's a good question. There was some much culture going on all over Italy.  But, if I had to pick one thing, probably the Tumeric-flavored Yogurt appetizer at Cibreo in Florence.  

KW  - Well, that's more like fermented milk culture, isn't it? I was talking more about... 

Go Go -  Oh, and did you know that in Florence, the don't even call it Florence. It's called like "Fur 'n Z",  Ya know,. like it's a mink coat company. And i guess they put the "Z" on it so its kinda like "the end", ya know. Like the "last word" in fur coats.  Fur and Z. I kinda like it.  

KW -  I see. Umm, interesting take.  How about your favorite museum?  

Go Go   It might not technically be a museum in the classical sense, like the way the Beverly Center is, but the Prada Outlet was very rewarding.   

KW  - Ok.   Let's see. I  understand in Rome, Michael took you to the Spanish Steps. 

Go Go -  He took me to some steps. I don't know if they were Spanish. They might have been Mexican. You know, the way some Mexicans say they're Spanish. (At this point Go Go coughed, but as she coughed, mumbled what sounded like "Pilar".)

KW   Did you see any Caravaggio masterpieces?

Go Go   No. Baseball is not very big in Italy.   David Rosoff told me Sandy Caravaggio once pitched a perfect game, though. 

KW  Let's move on. Speaking of David, I understand you saw the public copy on display in Piazza della Signoria.

Go Go  Come again? 

KW  That's what she.. .. Forget it. The public outdoor version of Michelangelo's stature of David. Out in the piazza. The town square. You took a photo with it. Were you impressed?  

Go Go -  Oh, the nude guy. Yeah, good abs. Nice ass, too. His thing, though. It wasn't hard. I mean I guess it was hard because it was made out of metal, or ugh, clay. No, not clay because clay would like get all wet in the rain and sorta melt. Right? But, his thing was not pointing up. You understand? It was pointing down. Good thing he didn't pee. I was right under it.  

KW - It's a sta.....   Let's go on.  Let's talk about architecture. 

Go Go  That's ok. 

KW  Ok. Well, let's see. I understand Michael walked you by the Church of Santa Croce in Flore, I mean, ugh, Fur And Z.   

Go Go - You catch on quick. 

KW  -And he told you Michelangelo, Gaiileo, Rossini, Ghiberti and  several other famous people were entombed there and he asked you if you wanted to go inside to, what, pay your respects?

Go Go  Yes. 

KW What did you tell him? 

Go Go . Rest in peace.

 

Go Go at the Pilar Steps

Go Go at the Pilar Steps

Go Go at Neptune's Fountain in Piazza Navona in Rome

Go Go at Neptune's Fountain in Piazza Navona in Rome

The Great One with Go Go Hong 

The Great One with Go Go Hong 

Why Chris Feldmeier Retired From Mozza

LOS ANGELES  

August 29, 2013

Barring a Joel Robuchon-like comeback,  August 27, 2013 marked the last day Chris Feldmeier worked as chef de cuisine at Osteria Mozza, a job he has had since the highly acclaimed restaurant in Hollywood South opened in 1961. 

Several people - and when I say "several", I am talking at least seven -  have asked me, knowing Chris and I are friends,  "Why? Why is Chris Feldmeier leaving Mozza?" The reasons were explained at a rye-infused farewell to Feldmeier at the Pikey this past Tuesday. For those of you unable to attend, here are the

                TOP 15 REASONS WHY BIG CHRIS  IS LEAVING MOZZA

!5. Told by executive chef Matt Molina "Either divorce Dahlia or I'll reveal our secret love affair."

14. The thrill of working at Mozza greatly diminished  since the departure of Taylor. 

13. Wear and tear on internal organs caused by being bumped into by AD

12. His intense hatred for bartenders named after World War II British field marshal. (NOTE The most famous British field marshal of WWII was Bernard Montgomery

11. Upset with David for charging Duke for a drink. 

10. Missing Uzma. 

9. If he read one more salumi story about Chad Colby, he would have shot him

8. Offered a job paying three times his current salary as executive chef of Nickerson Gardens. 

7. The utterly depressing realization that he would never, ever get to work side by side with Sam 

6.  Wanted to steal the thunder from Deb's farewell party tomorrow. 

5. Being paid very well by Daniel Flores to assassinate Mike Hoagland

4. Made a 100,000 bet at Caesar's Palace newly promoted Derek couldn't last a month without him.

3 Sick and tired of being called "an idiot" and being told what to do by Matt  MIchaelson.

2. Ran out of horrible things to say about Shannon Curely  

And the number one reason Chris Feldmeier is leaving mozza...

1. Leaving to spend more time with illegitimate son, Jake

 

MICHAEL HASTINGS' INVESTIGATION NOT OVER

DETECTIVE STILL ON THE CASE, NEW DETAILS EMERGE ABOUT HASTINGS AND THE CRASH

August 28, 2013

LOS ANGELES

Despite the release last week of the coroner's report, the lead LAPD detective in the Michael Hastings' fatal car crash case said Tuesday the investigation is "far from over", but adamantly maintained the view that the investigative journalist's death  was not caused by a criminal act.

"I'm not even close to being done with the investigation," said Det. Connie White in a small interview room at LAPD's West Traffic Bureau Division. "It was an accident.  I understand it is very important we do as thorough a job as we can do before the final report."

From Detective White and other well -placed sources, some new details have emerged from the last morning of Hastings' life which ended June 18 when his speeding Mercedes Benz crashed into a palm tree on Highland Avenue near Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjaPHWNz

* Hastings was on his way to Las Vegas that morning. 

* A pedestrian was nearly hit by Hastings' Mercedes at the traffic light on Highland at WIlloughby Avenue about halfway between Melrose and Santa Monica Boulevard, where the Benz ran a red light.    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNhqKRugk8Q

* The momentary blip of light on the Mercedes before it hits the curb is from the brake lights 

 *  The first obvious "flash", internet-gossiped to be a small explosion that caused the rise the rear end of the car, was most likely caused by the front wheel being sheared off by the impact with the curb. The flash and the "rise" of the rear may have been the car rolling over that wheel. 

* There is no strong evidence to support the claim, stated in the coroner's report  (    Here ıs the full report. )  that Hastings was using, or had ever even used the hallucinogenic drug known as DMT.

 * Hastings had expressed an interest in running for political office in the state of Vermont. 

* Hastings had talked of opening a marijuana-themed resort in Vermont, even though he thought that idea would be used against him in his hypothetical run for office. 

* The beginning of the end of the car's fatal path, though not seen on tape, is the slight rise and fall at the crossroads of Highland and Melrose. At the speed the Benz is traveling through that corner. conservatively estimated  at 80 mph, the car rose up on its suspension, came down hard enough to leave marks on the street near the valet station of the Mozza restaurant triplex, and as the video picks up, swerves. 

******* 

In the interview, White presented a rational reason for what was the first major "flash" seen on the security tape that captured the crash. 

"The front driver's side front wheel was completely sheared off in the crash," said White. giving that first flash a possible origin. The wheel hits the curb at high speed, is probably torn off right there and the Mercedes Benz drives over it, causing not only the flash, but also the often-questioned raising of the car's rear end.

White confirmed that very first blip of light on the video is the brakes. The brakes most likely put the car into the swerve that sends it into the curb and ultimately crashing into the palm tree.  

 

 ***

Hastings was best known for his 2010 Rolling Stone profile of General Stanley McChrystal and his aides who bad-mouthed President Obama and V.P. Biden.  McChrystal was basically fired because of the article.   

McChrystal's army boss was Gen David Petraeus, was later brought in from  the battlefield and became CIA head in September, 2011. But, a scandal, an extra-martial affair with his  biographer, Paula Broadwell, brought him disgrace and he resigned in November, 2012. Reports have surfaced that Hastings was working on a profile of current CIA boss John Brennan.  That combination - McChrystal, Petraeus, Brennan - turbocharged conspiracy theorists.

White said she understood the interest in the death of Hastings and the numerous conspiracy theories put out on the internet. 

But, White once again ruled out any idea a  bomb was placed in the car or any other foul play. "In my investigation, it appears to be that nothing else was going on other than this was a accident. We may never know exactly why  he was speeding, but the speeding caused the crashed. This was, like I have said,  a tragic accident." 

One element of the crash "kinda astonished" White and her fellow investigators and that is the distance the ejected Mercedes Benz CL250 engine was catapulted away from the crashed car, about 170 feet.  

"He had to hit the tree at such speed and at just the right angle for the engine to go that far," said White, a 22-year LAPD veteran who has spent 18 years as a traffic investigator and has never seen anything like that.

"It was amazing," White said. "I don't know any other way to say it besides "amazing".  But, not amzing in a good way." 

 

NOTE

None of this report will sway -nor is it intended to sway -  anyone away from the belief Michael Hastings was killed by some type of black ops car hacking. A friend of mine told me "what you are writing proves nothing. It sure doesn't prove he wasn't murdered."  I agree, but I had a few more details that those following the case might find of interest. 

 

 

 

 

 

.  

 

 

White Man Named Black Is BBQ Hero at Party

UGLY DRUM BEATS OUT SOME GOOD LOOKIN' MEAT

August 25, 2013

On the occasion of Larry (Lorenzo) Silverton's 88th birthday, his daughter Gail hosted a small gathering at her Valley Village home where, as a bonus, his 25-day namesake great grandson made his first family party appearance. But, while both Lorenzos were showered with affection, they were not the only subject of effusive praise. Joining them in the glory was hired gun chef Eric Black who prepared a classic feast of barbequed pork ribs, beef brisket, beans, potato salad and  cole slaw that had everyone muttering accolades between bites. 

Black, who is white, and perhaps best known for wearing a bright red t-shirt to the Watts Towers earlier this year, is a former cook at Mozza. Black's passion is barbecue and the spread he put out at Gail Silverton's demonstrated that deliciously . The pork ribs were meaty, tender and smokey, the holy trinity of a good rib. Plus his sauce, Chicago-style he said, was outstanding. I didn't even know Chicago had a sauce, but damn, I ate a couple spoonfuls like it was a soup. 

Black said he cooked them at his apartment in Monrovia in a smoker for four and a half hours before finishing them off at Gail's backyard.  (It should be noted the Monrovia Fire Department received seven false alarms from Black's neighbors during the cooking period)

Black's company is Ugly Drum and he makes "small batch" barbecue, available for private parties and other such events. This is what he says on his website https://uglydrum.squarespace.com/#our-team 

Erik founded Ugly Drum to have an excuse to do what he does anyways...make sausage, smoke   brisket and cook more food than he can eat.  He's worked with Joe at Los Angeles restaurants for over a decade including Campanile, Literati 2, Osteria Mozza and The Spice Table.

Erik's chef de cuisine is Joe Marcos, a mixed martial artist wanted in several countries including his ancestral homeland, the Philippines, for assault.  This man is armed and dangerous so do not attempt to apprehend, but rather call the National Security Administration.   

The Ugly Drum website paints a different portrait of Marcos.  

Joe has been cooking in some of the best restaurant kitchens in Los Angeles for many years.  Besides BBQ, Joe has a real passion for the rustic and honest foods of Spanish tapas.  Last year he created a tapas bar pop-up -- "Bar Plancha" --  where he served inspired Spanish small plates at The Spice Table in Downtown Los Angeles. Great BBQ and great Spanish tapas share the same ingredients of simplicity, tradition and fun. 

The Drum might be Ugly , but the ribs are delicious.

 

Nancy and Eric Black, who, you may notice, has white smoke coming out of his head. 

Nancy and Eric Black, who, you may notice, has white smoke coming out of his head. 

Nancy can't even wait for a photo before she cuts in.

Nancy can't even wait for a photo before she cuts in.

THE DEATH OF MANOLETE, IN PERUGIA

I recall times in my life  when the combination of what I was reading and where I was reading came together in such an extraordinary way that they were among the things I thought of whenever I heard John Coltrane's "My Favorite Things".

One such satisfying moment occurred Saturday, July 27, in the midst of the antique market at a small piazza in Perugia, the capital of Umbria, located about 30 minutes from Panicale, where I have been for the five weeks with Nancy Silvertron.  

I was there on that hot noon with Nancy and LIz "Go Go" Hong. As they shopped for tiny coffee pots, miniscule chairs  and sunglasses, I sat on a bench and read the climatic scene of "The Death of Manolete" by Barnaby Conrad,

Though surrounded by people strolling past and inspecting trinkets. I was so deeply immersed in the story of the August 28, 1947 fatal goring of the greatest bullfighter of his time that I was glad Nancy was browsing at a slow pace, even by her anti-Senna standards. 

I first heard about Manolete from my father when I was a teenager. My dad, Tony Krikorian, had never seen him, but spoke of Manolete in a way that brought him to life for me. Manolete was the greatest figure in all of Spain right around the time of Seabiscuit. and during and past World War II.  

About six months ago, I mentioned Manolete in passing to Larry Silverton, Nancy's dad. He was stunned I even knew of Manolete and he told stories about him and said I must read the book "The Death of Manolete" by this Barnaby Conrad, who Larry knew.   

I took it along to Perguia and while the girls shopped, I took a wonderful, and sad adventure to Spain.

Later, i started thinking about those rarified moments where place and book have united in my life to create lasting memories.

The last known occurrence was reading  Laura Hillenbrand's "Seabiscuit", one of my all time favorites books. I was at Philippes the Original Frenh Dip and reading the chapter  of the book that described the match race between Seabiscuit and War Admiral. Exhilaration in hardback. 

That rich L.A. setting - 1908 restaurant crowded with its world wide clientele, the five dollar glass of Havens merlot, the double dipped Lamb with swiss - and  the match race.  Talk about a daily double.   

Two other memores of book and place are even more beautiful to me,  though they were in the saddest of times. The deaths, 15 years apart, of my mom and dad. The book was the same both times, "Les Miserables". In 1987, as my mother was dying of ovarian cancer, I'd go to a park in Gardena, off Western Avenue, with a blanket, the book and a bottle of Smirnoff. Fifteen years later, as my dad was dying of lung cancer in the VA in West Los Angeles, I read Victor Hugo's masterpiece again, much of it at the bar of the Viceroy Hotel in Santa Monica.  Le Miserables will always be my favorite book, even more than "Southside".

Another memorable  book and place. "So Big" by Edna Ferber , read on the Amtrak train that runs between Fresno and Bakersfield.   That book is about a widow with a big baby who eeks out a living on a farm south of Chicago that has real hard dirt. Talk about a book that I would not be interested in, that's it. But, the writing. the storytelling was so compelling it made me realize any tale was worth reading if the writing was sublime. There is a passage in the book I read on this southbound train where  the timeline of the story jumps from the past to the present in such a wonderful fashion that I clearly remember being mesmerized. "So Big" didn't make me want to become a writer, but it did it teach me, or rather reminded me, powerfully, the pleasures reading could bring. 

 

 

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HASTINGS FAMILY TRIED TO GET HIM TO REHAB

AUGUST 20, 2013.     

Hopıng to get hım ınto rehab, a famıly member of Mıchael Hastıngs  arrıved ın Los Angeles from New York the day before he was kılled ın a fıery car accıdent,. the L.A. Coroner's offıce saıd Tuesday.

The famıly member stated that Hastıngs has 'pased out' sometıme between 12:30 a.m. and 1 a.m.., at least three hours before before the deadly crash on Hıghland Avenue just south of Melrose on June 18, accordıng to LAPD ınvestıgators..  Thıs famıly member belıeved Hastıngs had begun usıng DMT (Dımethyltrypta). Thıs drug, known as 'busınessman's trıp' or 'fantasıa', can cause 'ımpaıred judgement that often leads to rash decısıons and accıdents' accordıng to the Palo Alto Medıcal Foundatıon.  

 The offıcıal cause of death was 'massıve blunt force trauma consıstant wıth a hıgh speed front-end ımpact...'

The report states  'famıly had just arrıved from New York the day prıor attemptıng to get the decendant to go to rehab.' .Another famıly member was due to arrıve the mornıng of the crash.. 

The quoted famıly member saıd that Hastıngs 'belıeved he was ınvıncıble'  Hastıngs was sober for the past 14 years, but begun usıng drugs agaın ın the last month of hıs lıfe. No alcohol was ın Hastıngs system the reports states,  

The report also concluded that Hastıngs  had 'small amount of amphetamıne ın the blood, consıstant wıth a possbıble ıntake of methamphetamıne many hours before death unlıkely to have an ıntoxıcatıve effect at the tıme of the accıdent '.  

Here ıs the full report.

 Hastings, the 33-year old reporter best known for a profile that brought down a U.S. Army general, was killed in an explosive early mornıng car crash near Hollywood. His death immediately sparked internet claims of a 'black-ops' conspiracy.  

Thıs coroner's report ıs lıkely to muffle the conspıracy claıms.  

++ Thıs report was wrıtten on a Turkısh keyboard at a hotel ın Istanbul. Please overlook the even more than usual typos.

+++ If anyone has trouble pullıng up the lınked report, let me know. I wıll be travelıng ın the aır most of the day tomorrow. 

CAPRI IS BURNING

Reporting from Isle of Capri  August 18, 2013

This sunny morning, sitting at a cafe sipping cappucino with Nancy Silverton at an outdoor cafe fronting a rocky beach on the Mediterraean, I realized my memories of Capri go back nearly 30 years.  

It was in 1986, on the corner of Compton and Crenshaw boulevards, that my 1973 Mercury Capri caught on fire.  Me and my boy Nate Bowman quickly exited and took several steps away as my model 2600 went up in flames.  

"Capri is burning," I said numbly as my transportation melted before me.

"No," Nate told me. "Your motherfuckin' Capri is burning." 

We walked a few blocks up Crenshaw and bought a half pint of E & J brandy.  

I  thought of that this morning as my gaze shifted from the deep blue of the sea at Capri's Piccolo Marinia to the mustardy color of the chairs we sat in.   

"What color is that? These chairs. Like a mustard, but not French's." 

"It's like Gulden's Spicy Brown," Nancy said. 

"I used to have a Mercury Capri that color."

I told her the story of the Merc burning. Seconds later, like a master of ceremonies pointing to the band, a song came on the cafe's speakers. A woman singing.  The opening lines:

"Sometimes I hate every single stupid word you say

Sometimes I wanna slap you  in your whole face" 

We looked at each other and started laughng. I went to the bartender and asked what was the song. She looked. "PInk. Song is "True Love".

I told Nancy, "This could be our theme song."  

 Today is the last of our five night stay in Capri, and while I disparaged it on the first day, referring it as "Rodeo Drive Island", I gotta say, I had a ultra lovely time here.

The hotel, La Scalinatella, is probably nicest place I have ever stayed. 

We got into the Capri groove. A hour walk in the morning, down to the pool overlooking the sea. lunch from a poolside buffet, back to the room, drinks by the pool, walk or taxi through the narrow streets to dinner, drinks by the pool.   

The food was good, though this is not a foodie destination. The best meal we had, which was excellent, was at Paolino, http://www.paolinocapri.com/en/  This place is covered with lemon trees and we had the best tomato of the trip here.  So good, we ordered another one. Just a big tomato, called a "heart of bull", one of the owners said, with basil and a little olive oil. I'd say it was the second best tomato I ever had, coming in not far behind one from my friend Mark Arax's Fresno backyard.  

On the important people-watching front  the isle was superb. (Capri boasts one the highest Michelin one-star ratings for women per captia I have ever seen in Europe).  

Nancy saw a fancy dress.  "Maybe if your book does good, you can buy me a dress next year." Other than rescuing  a kid from a burning car, there's nothing I'd rather do.  

CapriPart2 004.JPG
Poolside pasta at hotel La Scalinatella

Poolside pasta at hotel La Scalinatella

Everyday at 1 p.m., we get in the line for the buffet at La Scalinatella . Line has two people  

Everyday at 1 p.m., we get in the line for the buffet at La Scalinatella . Line has two people  

Storied "Heart of Bull" tomato of Ristorante Paolino

Storied "Heart of Bull" tomato of Ristorante Paolino