NANCY SILVERTON'S GUIDE TO DINING IN ROME→

I don’t “vacation” in Rome, but I usually go there three or four times a year for a day or two on my way to and from my biannual getaways to Umbria where I have a small house that is my oasis.

Since I’ve been doing this for 20 years, I do have my Rome favorites and am occasionally asked for them. Therefore, I have decided to finally write my Rome Restaurant Guide.  Here it is, so if you ask me about my Rome picks, I’ll just refer you to this article.  

Since I usually land at Leonardo da Vinci airport in the early evening,. my first meal in Rome is dinner and it’s always at Roscioli near the Campo di Fiori. The formal name is Ristorante Salumeria Roscioli, which their website describes as “a multi-function delicatessen, an unconventional restaurant, and a varied wine bar, where the cuisine is based on high quality materials selected over the years by the Roscioli brothers and an attentive and ready staff.”

That’s all true. What they don’t tell you is it is my favorite restaurant in Rome.

You walk in and on your left is a deli case filled with the finest food products from all over Italy. The dining room is in the back, but in-between is where you’ll find me, at one of the eight or so seats at the counter. I’m not a huge pasta eater, but I’ll take several forkfuls of Michael’s order, usually fettuccine carbonara, made with the renowned eggs of Paolo Parisi. Parisi’s egg farm is near Pisa in Tuscany and part of the richness of these eggs is reward from the chicken’s steady diet of goat’s milk.

I’ll usually start with anchovies with French butter and move on to a pork dish or some fish. More on that later.

**

For lunch the next day I can be found, also near the Camp di Fiori, at Ristorante Salumeria Roscioli, sometimes referred to as Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, but in my world simply called Roscioli . Depending on how many people are dining with me, I might eat at one of the tables in the small, back dining room. If it’s just Michael and me, we are at the counter.  This is my favorite place to have lunch in Rome. The bartender and the charming owner Alessandro are getting to know us and will send some salumi our way. The last time they gave us cured sliced pork leg I haven’t had before called Cullaccia della Bussetto, a kinda cross between prosciutto and culatello. Just get it if it’s available.

I’ll as be digging into the pasta Michael will order, likely a rigatoni with French butter and three kinds of delicious Parmesan cheeses on the menu it is listed at Burro E Parmigiano “Francescana”, a homage to Massimo Bottura.

It’s a terrific was to start off a day in Rome. After, we begin our walking, usually rather aimlessly, but often leading us to the Spanish Steps and maybe to Marni, my favorite clothing store.  Then it more strolling and talking about going to see Caravaggio’s “Calling of Saint Matthew” - which we did see once – but we probably won’t go, just talk about going. We’ll go back tour hotel and relax for a while before dinner.

Last time in Rome - and I think future times -  we stared at this Damaso Hotel, which is located at Piazza della Cancelleria, 62, 00186 Roma RM, Italy    The rooms are nice, nothing fancy, mind you. but the staff is helpful, the price is good at about 100-120 Euro a night and the location is superb. It’s right near the Camp di Fiori.

So, from the Damaso, it about a four minute walk to my number one restaurant in all of Rome. It’s formerly called Ristorante Salumeria Roscioli, but we just call it, like most everyone else Roscioli. - pronounced Row – She Oh – Lee   Address is below. They also have a bakery and i think another cafe, but this is the one I’m talking about.

There is a dining room in the rear of the establishment. And one downstairs, but I like to eat at the counter. The food here is what I want. Simple and delicious. There’s even a superb hamburger. The pastas are superb, the selection of mozzarella is, too.

Usually after two days in Rome I am either driving up to Umbria or flying back to Los Angeles.

If I have a later flight home, or am cool with getting to Umbria in the early evening, I’ll have lunch at my favorite restaurant in Rome. It’s called Roscioli. I’ll tell you about it sometime, but I’m rushing off to lunch there.

Nancy’s Guide to Dining in Rome

ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA CON CUCINA  

www.roscioli.com 

Open Monday to Saturday 12:30 p.m. to 4 p.m., 7 p.m. to Midnight  Closed Sunday

Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Roma

Phone: +39 06 687 5287

WASHINGTON POST POLITICAL INVESTIGATIONS EDITOR MATEA GOLD HAD A COOLER JOB TITLE AT THE LOS ANGELES TIMES

Among the books I never thought I’d be reading during my recent two-week winter trip to Italy would have been the so-called Mueller Report, the exhaustive 448-page hunt for collusion and other shit with Russia by then-candidate Donald  Trump in the 2016 election  If I was locked up in the SHU at Pelican Bay and it was the only book in the cell, I’d probably read it.  

But, here I am, seven days into a getaway with my girlfriend Nancy in a 14th century hilltop town in Umbria overlooking Lake Trasimeno where Hannibal Barca wiped out 15,000 Roman soldiers in 217 B.C., and where I go to escape America and, having wrapped Michael Connelly’s latest on the airplane ride here and rushed through Lee Child’s Blue Moon in a personal best six days, I looked at what else I brought, cased the ripe bookcases here and, lo and behold,  decided to give the Washington Post’s illustrated version a shot.

Before I get to the book, let me explain, at some length, why I was even considering reading the Post’s 234 page paperback version. The reason  boils down to two words. One of them is Gold and the other is Matea.

Matea Gold, my friend of about 25 years (damn, Matea, quarter centuries fly by) had sent me the Mueller Report to me from her base at the Washington Post  where she is the National Political Enterprise and Investigations Editor. These times? That’s a cool job.

I met Matea when she had another cool job. Maybe even cooler.

This was back in the mid-1990s at the Los Angeles Times when Matea was the East L. A, Bureau Chief and I, who shared a two-top pod with her, was the Watts Bureau Chief.  We were both stringers back then and anointed ourselves those tough titles, though several staffers at the paper including our editors Bob Baker and Ed Boyer and some reporters often went along for the ride and called us that.  

To us, these two beats, East L.A., along with Boyle Heights, and Watts, along with South Central, were the thriving, rough and lonely, too-often forgotten, essential hearts of our city. We cruised those streets in search of stories not found on the City News Service wire or from cop calls. For example, in 1997, I wrote a story about a rose garden in Watts, (“Blooming of a Dream”) https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1997-01-01-me-14548-story.html and Matea wrote about crime going down in Boyle Heights (“In Hollenbeck, Crime Statistics Aren’t Needed”) https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1997-06-03-me-65061-story.html.

Our pods were not powerfully located in the City Room. They were off to a distant side, like our beats, hidden even from view of City Editor Bill Boyarsky’s desk – which he once famously stood atop to rally the troops in face of cooperate motherfuckers trying to slime into the newsroom  – by a large pillar on which health and benefits flyers were posted and ignored by the staff. To bottom it off, we sat about six feet from the entrance to the bathrooms.

But, like our beats, we turned that undesirable location completely around.  It went from a barrio and a ghetto pod to a desirable location.

Hold on. I’ll get to that Mueller book.

One of our first moves to upgrade our banished pod was that pillar. We tore down the ignored flyers about useless things like health and benefits and replaced them with photographs from the staff that didn’t make the paper. We had a closer relationship with photography department than anyone at the paper. I spent more time in the photo lab, mainly flirting with the great conflict photojournalist Carolyn Cole, than any journalist in the newsroom, even Calvin Hom and he was the assignment editor. So we, well, mainly Matea, came up with that idea get the photographers to post their unpublished photos of assignments on our pillar. The Wall, we called it.

The first one exhibit on The Wall was five or six shots from a series staff photographer Kirk McCoy did on black cowboys. Once that was up and popular, it became something of an honor to be on our Wall. We got stuff from Carolyn, Genaro Molina, Gary Friedman, Larry Ho, Anacleto Rapping, Luis Sinco, Clarence Williams, Perry Riddle, Robert Gauthier.

The staffers’ stop to the bathroom soon included a layover at our photograph Wall and a conversation with Matea and me. One memorable time, Rick Meyer, aka “The Great One”, aka Richard E. Meyer, stopped by, looked at our photo Wall and then complemented me on a story about Hells Angel leader Sonny Barger, “Good story about the Angels, Mike. How does Barger do it?” https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1997-jul-07-mn-10485-story.html   I’ll never forget that. I didn’t even know he knew my name.

And the coup de grace of Matea and my pod was food. In particular, barbecue. I would go once a month to the two best rib joints in the city, Phillips’ BBQ in Leimert Park and Woody’s on Slauson and stash the cardboard box of beef or pork ribs - mixed sauce – in my top desk drawer. (Yeah, I had traded the classic journalists’ stash of a bourbon in the desk drawer for ribs.  But, don’t discount me. I’d return to the old school bottle soon enough.) People would come by, enticed by the waft, and inquire. I’d simply pull out my drawer and offer them a rib.  One time I was talking to legendary 89 Family Swan Bloods leader Big Evil who called collect from Men’s Central, when Bob Sipchen, who would go on to win a Pulitzer for writing about mentally ill homeless people in 2002,  walked up, pulled out my drawer, took a few chomps off a rib, closed the drawer and walked off. Never said a word. Another time or two, my editor Ed Boyer enjoyed the ribs He posted so recently on Facebook after pit master Woody Phillips died.

Anyway, Matea and I had made the best of it. She became a staff writer before I did and went on to Washington, I went to Fresno and then came home to Los Angeles. We kept in touch throughout the years. I went to her wedding in Sonoma and admired the rise of her career. I never been to the Post, but I’m sure she has a powerful desk, or even office, but no way could it be as cool as our pod.  Long live East L.A. and Watts.

Now this book. Get it. Read it. It’s fascinating, enlightening and even entertaining. It’s as fast a read as Connelly or Child. I say it again. The Mueller Report, at least the one illustrated and edited by Matea Gold, is entertaining.

If it came out back in the day, Matea and I would’ve put it up on The Wall.

PASTRY'S SHIRI NAGAR WINS MOZZA EMPLOYEE OF THE YEAR AWARD

Until today, if you Googled the words “Shiri Nagar” what came up was “Srinagar”. Say what, my Nagar?

Yeah, this Srinagar turns out to be the largest city and the summer capital of the Indian union of Jammu and Kasimir. But, when you Google her name later today, you’ll get the real Shiri Nagar, the winner of the first ever Mozza Employee of the Year Award, known as the “Nancy”,

Six days ago, when she was still an Indian city, Shiri said she wished whoever won was someone who had never been to - or couldn’t afford to go to - the Ojai Valley Inn, the grand prize for winning the Nancy. It was likely that attitude helped earn her the victory.

While everyone nominated was a valuable Mozza team member, most of them scored well in their own departments, according to exit polls. Nagar, however, was picked in every quadrant of the Corner, garnering votes from Pizzeria, Osteria, Chi Spacca, 2Go, the Office and Pastry.

Shiri Shoshana Nagar was born June 20, 1992 in Aleppo, Syria and attended the Hole In The Wall Elementary School where she excelled in bomb dodging. However, by the 6th grade she was hanging with the wrong crowd and her parents moved to Fallujah, Iraq on Nov, 2004. I think we all know now that wasn’t a wise move.

During a cease- fire there, the Nagar family rushed  to L.A.. Shiri then attended Van Nuys High where she learned to say “fuck you” in several languages. 

After a stint at Tavern in Brentwood, she joined Dahlia Narvaez’ elite Mozza Pastry Squad (MPS) on Feb. 4th, 2014 and quietly went about her business. She gained fame in the summer of 2016 when she created what many food writers  – including Ruth Reichl - hailed as the “most refreshing dish of the year”, the Cucumber Mint Lime Sorbetto, affectionately known as the “Cumcumber”.

Later that year, Shiri was named Employee of the Month. After winning the EOM, Nagar seemed to grow in confidence and began using the language skills she picked up at Van Nuys High.

As the Employee of the Year, Shiri wins two nights lodging at the Ojai Valley Inn, where Nancy hosts master culinary events annually. She also gets a WWF Style Championship Belt, a bottle of something, and a trip to Watts.where she will tour the Watts Towers, have a Hawkins House of Burgers dish called the “Leaning Tower of Watts and, hopefully, get home .

PASTRY'S SHIRI NAGAR WINS MOZZA EMPLOYEE OF THE YEAR AWARD

Until today, if you Googled the words “Shiri Nagar” what came up was “Srinagar”. Say what, my Nagar?

Yeah, this Srinagar turns out to be the largest city and the summer capital of the Indian union of Jammu and Kasimir. But, when you Google her name later today, you’ll get the real Shiri Nagar, the winner of the first ever Mozza Employee of the Year Award, known as the “Nancy”,

Six days ago, when she was still an Indian city, Shiri said she wished whoever won was someone who had never been to - or couldn’t afford to go to - the Ojai Valley Inn, the grand prize for winning the Nancy. It was likely that attitude helped earn her the victory.

While everyone nominated was a valuable Mozza team member, most of them scored well in their own departments, according to exit polls. Nagar, however, was picked in every quadrant of the Corner, garnering votes from Pizzeria, Osteria, Chi Spacca, 2Go, the Office and Pastry.

Shiri Shoshana Nagar was born June 20, 1992 in Aleppo, Syria and attended the Hole In The Wall Elementary School where she excelled in bomb dodging. However, by the 6th grade she was hanging with the wrong crowd and her parents moved to Fallujah, Iraq on Nov, 2004. I think we all know now that wasn’t a wise move.

During a cease- fire there, the Nagar family rushed  to L.A.. Shiri then attended Van Nuys High where she learned to say “fuck you” in several languages. 

After a stint at Tavern in Brentwood, she joined Dahlia Narvaez’ elite Mozza Pastry Squad (MPS) on Feb. 4th, 2014 and quietly went about her business. She gained fame in the summer of 2016 when she created what many food writers  – including Ruth Reichl - hailed as the “most refreshing dish of the year”, the Cucumber Mint Lime Sorbetto, affectionately known as the “Cumcumber”.

Later that year, Shiri was named Employee of the Month. After winning the EOM, Nagar seemed to grow in confidence and began using the language skills she picked up at Van Nuys High.

As the Employee of the Year, Shiri wins two nights lodging at the Ojai Valley Inn, where Nancy hosts master culinary events annually. She also gets a WWF Style Championship Belt, a bottle of something, and a trip to Watts.where she will tour the Watts Towers, have a Hawkins House of Burgers dish called the “Leaning Tower of Watts and, hopefully, get home .

Osteria Mozza Defeats Pizzeria Mozza In Game #2 of Chicken Time World Series

After their opening loss to Pizzeria at the Mozza Chicken Time World Series, most experts thought Thursday’s  game  #2 was a “must win”  for the younger Osteria team. So it came as somewhat of a surprise when Osteria manager Sal Jaramillo handed to kitchen over to a relative newcomer, Diego Guachiac, for the second game of the World Series.

But, Guachiac came through, delivering a masterful performance with a stunning – and surprising - Tostada de Tinga, known to most black, white and Asian peoples as “chicken on one of those hard tortilla.”

From the opening bite, Diego’s tostada – slivers of chicken, avocado, queso fresco, pinto beans, lettuce topped with salsa – impressed the tasters, many of them who had been to game one.

“I love this, “ said Nancy, (or was that Natasha?) as she wolfed down her second Diego tostada.

The Pizzeria, after their stunning Game #1 victory, came back with chicken thighs again, but this time without the bone that many observers felts was the deciding factor yesterday.

In the Osteria kitchen, manager Sal was fast to credit Diego saying, “Diego can deliver in an important game.”

 In the Pizzeria, yesterday’s winning pitcher Ruben Martinez had no comment.

Neither did Raul Ramirez-Valdiva who cooked  for Osteria in game one’s loss.. Raul pretended to be more interested in watching Halloween related videos than the game .

 Game Three is scheduled for tomorrow at 11 a.m. with Pizzeria batting first. Osteria will bat at 11:30 a.m. The game is sold out.

.

PIZZERIA MOZZA BEATS OSTERIA MOZZA AT STAFF MEAL "CHICKEN TIME" SHOWDOWN

BY Jimmy Dolan, MOZZA TRIBUNE STAFF WRITER

As players prepared for Game Seven of the World Series in Houston, another championship was unfolding Wednesday on the Mozza Corner of Los Angeles as Ruben Martinez of Pizzeria went thigh-to-thigh with Raul Ramirez-Valdiva of the Osteria for the “Chicken Time Championship”  When it was over and the ballots counted, it was a stunning – and close - win for Ruben and the Pizzeria. 

Martinez took the victory with a quiet pride, choosing not to boast, as no doubt Pizzeria sous chef Ben Giron would have. “Thank you,” Martinez said with a smile to a reporter, and then gave credit to the guajillo peppers he used. And the roaring wood fire of the Pizzeria’s oven.

The voting, cast in secret, was extremely close, with Pizzeria edging out Osteria 13-12. Many tasters did not want to be quoted, but said off the record thought it was the “bone-in” of Pizzeria’s thighs that put it over the edge. A few weren’t bashful.

“The chicken was dark-skinned and tender inside,” said manager Alan “Rocky” Birnbaum, who made it clear he was talking about Ruben’s thighs, not those of Kenyan actress Lupita Nyong’o.

Some Mozza staffers thought PIzzeria had a not-so-secret ingredient - bones. “They were both outstanding, but I love the bone” said pastry kitchen supervisor Cecily Feng. Seeking to clarify that line, she added “Well, the bone does add flavor and tenderness.”

 Raul took the news with class and vowed to win next time. “Congratulations to Ruben,” Raul said. “I’ll get him next time.”

Ruben Martinez and his staff chicken thighs

Raul’s chicken for Osteria Mozza staff lunch

'SRO' SILVERTON REICHL OCHOA GASTRONOMIC TRIP TO ITALY & COPENHAGEN SHATTERS RECORDS, RATED "AN ALL TIME GREAT"

THE CHANCES ARE YOUR CHANCES ARE AWFULLY GOOD

EDITOR’S NOTE: Until this moment the acronym SRO meant Standing Room Only. But now, those three once-disappointing letters symbolize something desired, something people would joyously get in room without seats to be a part of; a Silverton Reichl Ochoa gastronomic adventure in search of the finest dining on Earth.

Last week, SRO - Nancy Silverton, Ruth Reichl and Laurie Ochoa - took two dozen intrepid - and high paying - diners on a Los Angeles Times sponsored trip to Modena, Bologna, Panzano and Florence in Italy and then finished up - without them - in Copenhagen for 45 hours. When the trip was over, so were several long standing gastronomic records including most “OMG”s, most “So good”s , most “this is fuckin’ delicious” uttered as the three ladies - aided by Italian stars Dario Cecchini and Massimo Bottura - enchanted on arguably the greatest food trip in modern recorded history.

However, this reporter accompanied the three legends only on the Copenhagen campaign, so my dispatch merely alludes to some Italian dining highlights while focusing on the Danish capital.

THERE’S SOMETHING AMBROSIAL IN DENMARK

I arrived in Copenhagen on a Wednesday, 36 hours before SRO, (largely due to a $525 round trip, nonstop Norwegian Air flight) and did recon for Nancy, Ruth and Laurie. My time alone included two stops that were so delightful that I went back to them every day of the remainder of my trip.

The first of those was the Mexican restaurant of Chicago-born Rosio Sanchez. Twenty months ago, in February 2018, arriving - for the first time - in Copenhagen a day before Nancy, I went to Sanchez with Jonathan Gold and Laurie Ochoa. It was outstanding.

(EDITOR’ NOTE For the record, as good as Sanchez was, the most memorable thing about that night - and Laurie will back me up - was the walk back to the hotel when Jonathan tripped, went down fast, performed a roll for which Nadia Comaneci would have held up a 10, got to his feet and continued on with his walk like the tumble was part of the program. It would - unfortunately - not be the only fall of the trip. Read about Nancy and the Frightening Fall of Copenhagen here . http://www.krikorianwrites.com/blog/2018/2/23/7iegjqbaimvldegyd2l87ryvopc22i By the way, the day after Nancy’s fall, she wasn’t up to going out and I went to Sanchez and became the first - and still only person - ever to get take-out tacos there. I bragged about this Wednesday night to my adorable server Alisa at this dinner. “Of course you did,.” Kate Green will say.)

Anyway, after the octopus tostada, “dirty’ carnitas tacos and black currant and lemon paleta at Sanchez, I went back to my hotel, the Astoria, located next to the central Copenhagen Train Station. $80 a night.

The next morning I set out on foot to Hart Bageri (Bakery). This is the bakery of Richard Hart formerly of Tartine in San Francisco who I met and - with the pinpoint accuracy and timing of a Montana to Rice - dropped the names of SRO to him. “Of course, you did,” will say Kate Green. The result was a luscious loaf of sourdough bread, a stunning cardamon croissant, a blondie bar, chocolate cookies, a panettone and cappuccino. On the house. All i had to do was deliver SRO to the bakery the next day. I did.

The rest of Thursday was walking (12.6 miles in all) and eating at Hija de Sanchez, Rosio’s taco joint in the city’s meatpacking district and a “classic” at John’s Hog Dog’s nearby, a place recommended to me by legendary L.A. TImes copy editor Saji Mathai who learned of it from Anthony Bourdain.

SRO came in Friday, at around 2:!5 pm and they were all very hungry. After we all settle in to an Air B & B Laurie found, it is off to get something to eat. Nancy, Laurie and Ruth cannot wait to the 5 p.m. dinner reservation we have at a celebrated restaurant called Noma and demand to eat right now. In a cab we head to the meatpacking district. The taxi driver was an Iranian whose family had fled Khomeini.

First stop is a seafood place called Kodbyns Fiskebar. It’s fine. Oysters, mussels, sea urchin, some salad. I have a view of a clock and notice the time when we get there, 2:45 and when we leave, 3:48. Noma is only 72 minutes away. Still, SRO is SRO and they want to go to Rosio’s nearby taco joint, HIga de Sanchez.. But on the way, Nancy demands a “classic” from John’s Hot Dogs across the street. SRO eats this dog at 3:58, 62 minutes before our dinner at this Noma place.

SRO wants more! We go to Rosio’s and get three tacos. It is 4:06 p.m., 54 minutes until Noma.

We grabbed a cab back our place to change .The taxi driver was a Chilean whose family had fled Pinochet He waits while we quickly freshen up and takes us to Noma.

DINNER AT THE WORLD’S GREATEST ALBANIAN RESTAURANT

Noma is the kingdom of Rene Redzepi. Its previous incarnation a mile away had been named the world’s best restaurant in that Pellegrino guide four times, a feat also accomplished only by the now closed elBulli in Spain. It is usually called a New Nordic restaurant and is named after the distillation of two Danish words, Nordisc (Nordic) and Mad (Food). But, it turns out Rene, though born in Copenhagen, is half Albanian and since Albania gets a bum rap - or at least a rap - and most everyone Rene introduces to me and SRO in the kitchen is “a cousin from Albania”, I have taken to calling Noma the world’s greatest Albanian restaurant. Rene Redzepi is about the most famous Albanian since Mother Teresa, - yeah, she was an Albanian - proving Albanians can not only cook brilliantly , but be extremely compassionate.

Walk by the prep kitchen and you might hear some wet frantic fisherman yell “Automjeti im eshte plot me ngjala”, but don’t be alarmed it simply means “my hovercraft is full of eels.”

Whatever you call it - New Nordic, Albanian, Earth, - Noma turns out to be among the most memorable and wonderful experiences of my life. It wasn’t just because of the food. It was the whole thing, especially the company and the near disaster of last year. There was a moment when i was looking out of the window with this view of a puffing smoke stack and Nancy was framed in it and Laurie was across from me and Ruth to my left and whatever we were eating - probably reindeer offal - was delicious and i thought of all the world’s unfortunate people and how fortunate I was and I - without SRO noticing - got a little emotional. “Of course you did.,” will say Kate Green.

Hell, by the end of the meal you might say to Rene and crew “Te dua”, Albaniian for “I love you.”

SRO and I went home The taxi driver was an Indian from the Punjab who I didn’t ask why his family came to Denmark. I picked up a bottle from the wine bar next door., Dan Vandrette.

EDITOR’S NOTE - For photos of the Noma dinner, see Ruth Reichl’s Instagram

SRO AUTOGRAPHS A BOOK AT HART BAGERI

The next morning, Saturday, Laurie, Ruth, Nancy and i walk across a bridge to get coffee at the Corner at 108. https://108.dk/en/the-corner/coffee-bar/ Good spot. We have a sourdoough bun with cheese and whipped cream. Damn.

Then we catch a cab to Hart Bakery. The taxi driver was from Turkey.. I, as I always do in this situation, fire back that I’m Armenian. “Of course you did,” says Kate Green. We don’t talk a whole lot at first, but then we find a common bond. Lewis Hamilton The cabbie had revved his taxi, a new Mercedes and I ask if he knows of Lewis Hamilton, the great Formula One driver. The cabbie does and Hamilton, an Englishman who drives a German race car called the Silver Arrow, unites us for a few Danish miles.

At Hart, the owner Richard has gone to New York, but his staff is waiting for SRO, primarily, and understandably, for Nancy. Her book “The Breads of the La Brea Bakery” is in the kitchen. It’s a first edition. and, to the delight of the staff. the book, Nancy informs them, is written by Laurie Ochoa and the forward is by Ruth Reichl. They all autograph this now very rare book. Check it. https://www.instagram.com/p/B4C6JbznvAj/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

And take a cab to lunch. The taxi driver is from Morocco, though he looks as Danish as Prince Hamlet himself.. Lunch is at Ralae, a one star Michelin place near the cemetery where Hans Christina Anderson is buried. I know that name, but can’t say for sure why.. Kirkergard is buried there, too. He’s in that story above “Nancy Silverton and the Frightening Fall of Copenhagen.” Something about “What’s the point?” The food is delicious, and has a slightly Asian bent which is right up Ruth’s wheelhouse. There’s superb lamb, noodles, various vegetables and the highlight, to me, is a pumpkin dish. Gee, I hope you weren’t expecting a restaurant review. In real life I’m a gang reporter.). Let’s just say it was outstanding and go there.

We walk home. Rest a few, and go to Sanchez for dinner. We are joined by Noma’s Tracy Page, and Melina Shannon DiPietro the executive director of MAD and Nadine Levy Redzepi, Rene’s wife. Good time. Rosio’s food satisfies immensely.

We get a cab ride to Dan Vandrette the wine bar next to our place. The cab driver is a Kurd who came to Copenhagen from Iraq to escape Saddam. I tell him I’m Armenian and was at a demonstration with L.A.’s Kurdish community at the Turkish Consulate. “Of course, you did.",” says Kate Green. The cabbie is thrilled to hear this. The light red wine offered is rejected twice by Nadine. Finally a darker wine is offered and we have a bright time.

Back at our place. Nancy can’t find a book I ordered her on her Kindle. The title, she reminds me is “Chances Are.” We break into singing the Johnny Mathis classic. Ruth finds “Chances Are” on YouTube. It sounds old school beautiful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEH3uqbpsm8

The next morning, Nancy and Laurie get a early cab to the airport. Their cabbie is an Kurd, too. (Kurds win, 2-1) Ruth and I take a nice long walk , past Noma, to another good bakery called Lille. A couple hours later, Ruth leaves in a cabbie who I didn’t get a chance to ask where he was from.

I walk back to the Hotel Astoria, check in and go to Hart. My money is no good there, they tell me. That night I go to Sanchez.

The next morning, I walk from the Hotel Astoria 200 meters to the train station, pay $5 for a 12 minute ride to the airport and get on my non stop back to Los Angeles. On the flight I write some of this and watch “Casablanca”. Of course I did.

Guess you feel you’ll always be the one and only one for me

and if you think you could

Well chances are your chance are awfully goood.

The chances are your chances are………

Awfully good.

awfully good



Osteria Mozza Staff Lunch Of Russian Vodka Fried Chicken By New Cook Sets Off Controversy

BY JIMMY DOLAN

For veterans of Mozza, the daily staff lunch at Osteria is lovingly referred to as “Chicken Time”, a usually refreshing midday break that that marks an unofficial “half time” for the day crew.

But, Monday, that lunch turned into an political firestorm  when the meal - fried chicken prepared by newly hired pasta room employee  Jennifer Velasquez -  was lauded by Nancy Silverton as “maybe the best fried chicken ever served at the Corner”.

That statement was issued to the Mozza Tribune – and the Washington Post - in a press release before  it was leaked by a whistleblower that the fried chicken contained Russian Vodka.

Almost immediately the “Chicken time” became national political news.

 Seeking to diffuse his involvement in the “Ukraine” controversy, former vice president and Democratic presidential candidate Joe Biden went on the offensive, calling the chicken not only a threat to national security but “a slap to the kisser” to American vodka makers.

 But, it wasn’t just politicians slamming Jennifer’s fried chicken. Just as shocking - perhaps even more so - was the reaction of several Mozza employees, some of who were clearly upset that Velasquez, who has only worked on the Corner since Sept. 5, 2019 - a mere 34 days - was getting so much publicity.

 “When I made my fried chicken, I did it for the love of serving my co-workers a delicious meal,” said Chi Spacca sous chef Hayley Porter. “I didn’t do it for the publicity. For the fuckin’ headlines. Who the hell is Jennifer What’s Her Name anyway?”

Lost in the controversy was the later staff meal of fried chicken prepared by Kirby “Dr. K” Shaw.  Many thought it was just as good as the Russian Vodka version, but lacked the obvious ingredient of controversy.   

 Senate hearings will begin Friday.

Kirby "Dr. K" Shaw Named Best Guest of the Mozza Staff Party, Normally Drunk, He May Have Saved Lives, LAPD Says

BY JIMMY DOLAN

When oddsmakers in Las Vegas were laying bets on who would be drunkest at the annual Mozza Worker’s Party held on Labor Day, there were two favorites; Michael Krikorian and Kirby Shaw, the Corner’s version of Seabiscuit and Secretariat when it comes to drinking.

But, come Labor Day at Nancy Silverton’s home in Windsor Square, Osteria Mozza sous chef Kirby Shaw stepped up and - instead of being drunk - was the one taking care of the several drunks in attendance. He took away car keys, stopped a DJ from electrocuting himself, checked the pulse of at least four inebriated party goers, talked and guided three people  - who were about to drown - out of the pool.

 For these actions,  Kirby Shaw has been named Guest of the Labor Party aka GOLP.

 “Kirby saved several lives that day,” said LAPD Commander Cory Palka who heads the West Bureau. “If Shaw wasn’t there, our officers would have been all over that party.”

While this may not be stunning to those who know Shaw well, it comes as a shock to the scores whose knowledge of him is simply from parties and after-shift gatherings.

That’s understandable. Let’s examine the facts. He’s Irish. He’s 25. He talks almost as much about drinking as he does his beloved Dodgers. He’s Irish. He often takes the subway. In Los Angeles. Who takes the subway in Los Angeles if they are sober? Plus, he’s Irish.

Lia Shaw, Kirby’s mother, perhaps best known in the Osteria Mozza kitchen for her chocolate chip cookies, was thrilled to hear her son had been honored as GOLP. “For a quarter of a century I have dreamed of Kirby winning something, anything. And for him to be honored at Nancy’s house, well, it means it was all worth it. I mean he’s been known to gulp, so it’s nice to have him win the GOLP.”

Kirby’s father, reached in London via cell phone, did not believe the news at first, “What?”, Kevin Shaw yelled. “We must have a bad connection. Can you hear me?  It sounds like you said Kirby was the sober one and helped the drunks? You’re breaking up. Can you hear me? “

 As for Krikorian, well, something was clearly off with him. He was nice to a Turk

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