Wild Celebration in Panzano At Butcher Dario Cecchini’s Wife Kim's Birthday Party Leaves Several Injured

Sept, 29, 2013 A.D.

At least 14 people were wounded by falling bullets Saturday in Tuscany after rambunctious revelers fired their AK-47s skyward in a wild celebration for the birthday of Kimberly Wicks,  aka "The Grace Kelly of Panzano" , aka "Killa Kim".  None of injuries were life threatening, though many reported a strange, even-more-intense-than-usual craving for "Burro di Chianti" aka lardo.

Officials estimated  up to six million people converged on the Chianti countryside to get a chance to met Kim and Dario Cechini, a butcher much better known as "Kim's Husband."  In downtown Panzano itself, where the couple are often found working, drinking and generally having a wonderful life, the mood was that of a liberated village.

Cleaning crews from around Europe and the Middle East were still being deployed in Tuscany late Sunday following a massive and wild celebration

Wicks, whose official title is Head Dishwasher at Antica Macelleria Cecchini, is widely considered to be the First Lady of Panzano. She first came to Italy in the 1990s, hoping to escape a life of crime in California where she hung out with the like of Big Evil, and Big Mike, both of the infamous MAKMAK47 Revolutionary Brigade. It was in California where she earned the nickname Killa Kim", as well as her other Nom de Guerre "The Blonde Widow" after her first nine husbands died mysteriously.  

Her tenth  husband, Dario "the Butcher", seems to be having the time of his life. As a gift to his beloved wife, Dario presented Kim with a 2,337 year-old-tin of Ancho;vies, originally given to Alexander the Great for conquering Panzano in 324 b.c..

 Alexander had stashed the tin with orders not to open until "Another extraordinary event occurs in, in, where are we again? India? Persia? Tyre? Oh, yeah, Panzano" 

Legendary tin once presented to Alexander

Bread and pastry man delivers

Throngs crowd Panzano Streets to get near Kim Wicks

SOUP OF THE SUMMER NOMINATIONS ANNOUNCED

Tre Zuppe of Summer MMXIII 

Sept, 22, 2013

Me, I'm a guy who savors a really good soup, yet I will quickly push aside a faulty soup and wonder "Why the hell did I order soup?" On these bad or even so-so soup occasions you can safely wager my frequent dining companion Nancy Silverton will say "That's what you get for ordering soup." . 

On this, the first day of Autumn,  I look back on our Summer Italy MMXIII, and recall three soups so good they were nominated for the Soup of the Summer award. (The winner will be announced at the Waldorf Astoria in East St. Louis, Illinois later this year.)

The first outstanding soup  was at one of my favorite less-than-two-hours from Panicale restaurants, Locanda Del Glicine, (http://www.cantinapievevecchia.com/locanda/ristorante/)  in the midieval town of Campagnatico.  That's in kinda south Tuscany, about 20 miles from the Tyrrhenian Sea, a clique of the Mediterranean.   

Last year I had the Soup of the Year winner here, a gazpacho. But, at this lunch the manager said the garden tomatoes were not quite ready.  Though disappointed, I could appreciate that. 

So instead i had the soup they did offer that mid-July lunch, a cream of zucchini with a icy sorbet of ricotta plunked in the middle. Try telling the homies you had a soup with cheese sherbert on it. Anyway, it was excellent.  Not the level of last year's storied gazpacho. but good enough to get in a 2013 SOS competition. 

The second nominated soup was  in Florence at Cibreo Trattoria. Here, at the little sister to one of Florence's premiere dining establishments. Cibreo Ristorante, I had a porcini soup that was thick and very accurately named. This soup, every bite, or I guess, what, you don't bite a soup, every spoonful. slurp, swallow. this soup was yelling "I'm a porcini! I am porcini!. Don't for a minute even think I'm a goddamn button mushroom." Soup was rich.   

The third finalists was in Citta Del Pieve, a hilltop town around 30 minutes from Panicale. Here our friend Alan Mori, aka "A", aka "Jack Reacher", told us about Bistrot del Duca..  (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bistrot-del-duca/176113152403336#!/pages/Bistrot-del-duca/176113152403336)

When Christian, the chef/owner recited the menu and said "cold cucumber soup", I was there.  This soup  was the cool essence of one of my favorite vegetables, a vegetable so breezy that calling it a vegetable don't even seem right. I can see the cucumber from this Bistrot Del Duca garden complaining about even being planted in the vegetable section.  Like "Put me over by the fruits or, better yet. stick me in there with my ice cream boys."    

A cucumber soup is supposed to be refreshing so there's pressure on a chef to make it extra refreshing. Chef Christian's soup came through. 

Here's the soups ( zuppe) from Glicine and Duca. (Nancy's phone has the porcini soup and she's somewhere over Tennessee now.)

Zucchini soup at Locanda del Glicine in the Maremma

Cucumber soup from Bistrot Del Duca in Citta Del Pieve.

The Linguini That Saved Naples

"Where are you staying in Naples?" asked the concierge of La Scalinatella, our quarters for a rich August week in Capri where a lone piece of sidewalk trash would elicit stares.

The Una Napoli Hotel, I told her. Near the main train station. If I had said "The Motel Five on the Southside of Aleppo, Syria" no greater look of alarm would have resulted. "It's far too dangerous," MIss Concierge warned. 

Nancy was just about to have her cancel our 70 euro-a-night pad for a 250 euro recommendation when I pulled her aside. "She lives in Capri. Her version of dangerous and mine, even yours, is, ya know, different."

So we stayed at the Una Napoli.  It was good enough for our 20 hours in Naples, though I could see the Capri point of view.  The blocks surrounding the hotel were kinda grimy. But, soon after we started our all-day stroll through the city, it became apparent those blocks near the hotel were not seldom seen in old Napoli. They were typical.  

"This whole city needs to be dragged through a car wash," I told Nancy as we walked for kilometers, nearly every wall here in need of a deep mortar cleansing and hi-pressure rinse. I have never seen a more graffiti-splattered city. Every single church. even their Duomo, was spray-painted. 

It was my kind of town. 

But, not our kind of day. Don't go to Naples on a Monday in mid-August. I had printed out a "36 Hours in Naples" from a January, 2013  New York Times article ( http://travel.nytimes.com/2013/01/13/travel/36-hours-in-naples-italy.html?pagewanted=all ) and, along with some Faith Willinger recommendations, we had places to check. They were all closed.  

Except for Da Dora Ristorante. (http://www.ristorantedadora.com/)  But, our reservation there was not 'til 9 p.m..   

So, for hours we walked. Four hours plus we walked.  It was hot, too, about 93 or so. We strolled the nearly deserted waterfront streets Via Caracciolo and Via Partenope and had warm, offensive red wine that even Nancy Silverton couldn't and wouldn't drink. We ambled through Chiaia, the area the NY Times proclaimed the "city's prime night life zone", studded with boutiques, art galleries and wine bars. That Southside of Aleppo would have been livelier

So, we stepped early to Da Dora, a mom and pop seafood restaurant on a narrow residential street lined with folding chairs occupied by middle-aged men and women fanning themselves, old teenage girls bouncing babies, and an Andy Garcia "Godfather III" character look-a-like who had a Che Guevara tattoo on his right forearm. Che and his neighbors eyed us without welcome.   

At Da Dora,  we were told "come back at eight."  We debated to cancel and head back to the Una Napoli.  No. At least Da Dora was open. We .walked around these drab blocks for another hour.  "If there's a murder in this neighborhood tonight," Nancy said, "And the police come around asking these people if they saw any unusual people..."   I laughed. She didn't.

*** 

The English-speaking waiter Antonio, who, (according to a Chowhound post by "Indy 67"  I read two days ago ) is "famous for his knowledge of state capitals," took our order. Linguini with seafood for me,  a shellfish platter for her and a fish soup for two.   

After finding out we were from Los Angeles, Antonio wasted no time, asking me if I knew the capital of California.  Before I responded, he said "Sacramento."  Soon we were tossing states back and forth. I know my capitals quite well, but when he said "Kentucky",  I had no idea. Even now, now that I know it's Frankfurt, it still doesn't sound right.  Tony's gloat didn't last long as i got him wiith Montana ( Helena) and South Dakota, ( Pierre).  Mess with me on some U.S. capitals. Italian, please.

Soon, he put the linguini with seafood down. One bite, that's all it took for me to know this was something extraordinary. One bite to make me close my eyes and savor.  One bite to know we had been so right to wait.  

The pasta was cooked to the right second. The sauce, to call this a "Tomato Sauce" would be like calling Sandy Koufax “a pitcher”. The assortment of seafood - lobster, shrimp, squid, mussels, clams - was so fresh it seemed like you could hear them talking to each other about what it was like to get captured earlier that day in Naples Bay. (Ok, Mike, back off. That's enough, Just admit here you're not a food writer.)  

I'm not a food writer. Clearly . But, that linguini was so damn delicious. it was one of those dishes that, as it began to become clear that it would soon be gone, I slowed my savour down considerably.  

Nancy's dish and the fish soup we split were both superb. But, that linguini. I'd go back to Naples on a Monday in August just to have that linguini again. 

###### 

(WARNING : Read further at own peril.) 

Advanced technology reached extraordinary levels during my stay in Naples when the NSA was able to decipher a highly encrypted conversation between the various shellfish on the plate of the above-described linguini. 

The conversation:

Clam on the pasta - What you doin' here, Red?

Lobster - You believe this shit? I was chilling in the Bay, taking it in, and all a sudden, Swosh. I'm in a goddamn net. 

Large Shrimp - Me 'n my boys, too. Fuck it, Was bound to happen. 'Least i ended up at Da Dora. Heard some my homies got froze to death and shipped out to Dubai.

Lobster -  I know what you mean. They boiled the shit out my cousin in China somewhere.

Shrimp - Yeah. You gotta go, might as well be to Da Dora.

Clam - And check it. That's Nancy Silverton eating with this guy.

Shrimp - She's having some assorted. 

Lobster -  I'd like to "Therma" her-"door", You feel me?

Shrimp - Indeed.  I go " Jumbo" on her. 

Clam  - Incoming!! 

(Much static is heard on the leaked NSA recording. The all is quiet, except a human saying "Damn, that was good.") 

The LInguini that saved Naples

Che in Naples

Da Dora's fish soup 

Dora and her husband

The waiter who knows the capitals

The MENU of the World's Second Best PIzzeria

PEPE IN GRANI

This is the menu of Pepe in Grani, my second favorite pizzeria in the world This is rationally explained in a previous official document first released here and read by more than 45 people and later, thanks to a tweet by Ruth Reichl, (@ruthreichl) by over 1,000.  Franco Pepe sent this menu to Krikorian Writes and urged Pepe in Grani loyalists to join his facebook page which is https://www.facebook.com/pepeingrani

Pepe in Grani is located in the town of Caiazzo roughly 50 kilometers north of Naples and 150 kilometers south of Rome. 

Vico S. Giovanni Battista, 3, 81013 Caiazzo, 

 +39 0823 862718

Classic pizzas

 La pizza a libretto €1,50 

 smaller size pizza with tomato sauce, garlic, oregano and evo oil caiazzana variety 

Schiacciata €2,50 

salt, oregano, evo oil caiazzana variety 

Margherita €3,90 

tomato sauce, fiordilatte, evo oil caiazzana variety 

Marinara classica €3,00 

tomato sauce, oregano, garlic, evo oil caiazzana variety 

La Boscaiola €6,00 

tomato sauce, fiordilatte, mushrooms, speck, oregano 

Ai porcini €6,00 

fiordilatte, porcini mushrooms, oregano 

La Piccante €5,00 

fiordilatte, tomato sauce, spicy salami, oregano 

Al pomodorino fresco €5,50 

fiordilatte, cherry tomatoes, basil, evo oil caiazzana variety 

Calzone classico €6,00 

fiordilatte, tomato sauce, cooked ham 

The original

 Marinara di mastro Stefano €4,00 

the classic + anchovies and capers   

Pdo Margherita €6,50 

S.Marzano Pdo tomato sauce, Pdo buffalo mozzarella, evo oil caiazzana variety 

L’Alifana €6,50 

fiordilatte, scamorza cheese, Alife onions, bacon, oregano 

La Pinsa conciata del ‘500 (mastunicola) €7,00 

nero casertano lard, pepper, Alto Casertano oregano, basil, conciato romano (Alto Casertano pecorino cheese), on demand, Cilento figs jam 

La Riccia Nero ripiegata €8,00 

fiordilatte, smoked scamorza cheese, nero casertano sausage, curly endive, oregano 

La nero casertano €8,50 

tomato sauce, fiordilatte, smoked scamorza cheese, nero casertano sausage, oregano, evo oil caiazzana variety 

Il sole nel piatto €9,00   (ORDER THIS )

Pdo buffalo mozzarella, Pdo Vesuvius’ piennolo tomato, Cetara anchovies, caiazzane olives, Alto Casertano oregano 

Il piennolo €7,50 

Pdo buffalo mozzarella, Pdo Vesuvius’ piennolo tomato, basil, evo oil caiazzana variety 

L’orto del giorno €6,50 

 fiordilatte, seasonal vegetables 

Ai sapori del Cilento €9,00 

Pdo buffalo mozzarella, ricotta from Paestum and Cilento Pgi artichoke 

La ceci delle colline caiatine (subject to availability) €9,00 

fiordilatte, Caiazzo hills chickpeas, loin of nero casertano, curly endive, garlic, evo oil caiazzana variety 

Aglio, olio e peperoncino €6,00 

garlic, Cetara anchovies, chili pepper, parsley, nero casertano lard, Alto Casertano oregano, evo oil caiazzana variety 

Calzone con scarola riccia €8,00 

curly endive, Cetara anchovies, capers, caiazzane olives, evo oil caiazzana variety 

4 stagioni €7,00 

tomato sauce, fiordilatte, carciofi, mushrooms, capers, anchovies, olives, cooked ham 

Capricciosa €6,50 

tomato sauce, fiordilatte, capers, anchovies, baby artichokes, caiazzane olives 

Ai Formaggi €6,00 

fiordilatte, scamorza cheese, pecorino cheese, grana, oregano 

Con patate lesse e condite €5,00 

fiordilatte, potato with evo oil caiazzana variety, oregano and garlic 

Calzone de “Il Casolare” €8,50 

Pdo buffalo mozzarella, ricotta, scamorza cheese, nero casertano sausage, spot of tomato sauce 

Schiacciata gustosa €7,00 

fiordilatte, scamorza cheese, porchetta (italian roasted pork), arugula, oregano 

Schiacciata fresca €7,00 

fresh tomato sauce, pecorino cheese, raw ham, arugola 

Fried pizzas 

Calzone €4.00 

ricotta cheese, smoked scamorza cheese, salami, pepper 

Montanara €4,00 

tomato sauce, oregano, capers 

Tasting menu

 (we recommend a minimum of 3/4 people) 

1] Pdo Margherita, Marinara, Calzone con scarola riccia, La nero casertano, La pinsa conciata del 500. €42,00 

2] Pizza fritta, Il Piennolo, Calzone con scarola riccia, Calzone de “Il Casolare”, La pinsa conciata del ‘500. €46,00 

3] Pdo Margherita, Il sole nel piatto, La riccia nero ripiegata, La cilentana, La pinsa conciata del ‘500. €50,00 

Pizzas are served in succession and divided by the number of diners to taste the quality without overlapping the flavors. For this reason, the tasting option provides a slight increase in price compared to the sum of the individual pizzas, due to the greater time of occupation of the table. Equivalent service mode, will be considered tasting menu. 

Appetizers 

Bruschetta €1,50 

fresh tomato, oregano, garlic, evo oil caiazzana variety 

Tagliere del territorio €10,00 

culatello from Matese or local ham, sausage, sun-dried tomatoes, Alto Casertano cheese, caiazzane olives 

Potato croquettes (3 pcs, homemade)  €3,00 

Typical dishes

 (based on day availability) 

Soffritto (chilli steamed pork offal) 

Pancotto (bread, ham and vegetable soup) 

Baccalà (fried cod) 

Dessert

 Homemade or artisan pastry €3,00 

“Nonna Amelia” biscuits, 1 portion (3 pcs) €3,00 

with Pallagrello wine, olive oil caiazzana variety 

and hazelnuts

Also from the menu : 

Pepe in Grani is a project of Franco Pepe. It’s the place in which the experience of three generations of masters of the bakery converge and where Franco practices its desire of experimentation. Pizza, research and hospitality are the three point of reference of the whole structure, which is meant to be a window on the territory, on the gastronomic tradition and the virtuous producers of Alto Casertano area. 

The dough is made exclusively by hands and it’s worked in the cupboard of wood, without the use of mixers or electricity and is left to rise naturally to ambient temperature.

The products present in this menu are researched and personally selected by Franco and served following the seasons, as well as its pizzas and its fillings. 

A homage to Franco Pepe's country . 

The World's Second Best Pizza

"il sole nel piatto"  The Dream of Caiazzo

PEPE IN GRANI

The world's best pizza is your favorite pizza, whatever and wherever that may be. It might be that pepperoni pizza from your old neighborhood or "the Works" at the pizzeria in your college town. Could be it's Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix or PIzzeria Due in Chicago. or Di Fara's in Brooklyn.  My favorite pizza is the off-the-menu Michael Pizza ( three cheeses with fennel sausage added) at Pizzeria Mozza in Hollywood South.

I am in no way trying to budge you from your favorite pizza. I get loyalty. I'm all about loyalty. I will tell you, though, the second best pizza in the world is made at "Pepe in Grani" in the quaint town of Caiazzo, in Campania, Italy about an hour-long windy drive from Naples. I'll straight-out proclaim that. 

The particular pizza there that ascends is called "Il sole nel piatto", also known, to me alone,  as "The Dream of Caiazzo"  

I wrote about Pepe in Grani, ( Pepe in Grains) briefly here a few weeks ago, ( https://michael-krikorian.squarespace.com/blog/2013/8/16/pizza-titans-meet ) after Nancy Silverton and I went there August, 13.  But, damn. the pizzas I ate there haunt my memory. Nancy doesn't help at all. The other day she told me "If I had ate a pizza from Franco Pepe before I opened my pizzeria, I would have never opened my pizzeria."  

Thing about the pizza here is not the crust, which, as fine as it is, has nothing on Mozza's landmark handles. The crust at Pepe in Grani is "doughy", but in a very satisfying way. It has quite a pleasant flavor and a good bite-into feel.  Most of the roughly 150 diners here were going at their pizzas with a fork and knife.  I didn't, though I needed to fold and tuck at the point. 

However,, what sets Pepe in Grani apart was the brilliant quality of the stuff on top of that hand-stretched dough.  Even the basil. It was like basil turbo. You bite into it and it's like saying "Yeah, I'm some basil. What about it?" Settle it down, basil.

Same thing with the anchovies. They tasted more like grilled bistecca than salty, dwarf fish.  The olives. These olives would be saying to others, "You call yourself an olive? I oughtta pit you." The tomatoes. LIke Ruth Reichl once wrote about tomatoes, "They tasted like a slice of the sun cooled in a forest stream."  The mozzarella. Supreme. 

After two pizzas and a large calzone (that had Nancy repeatedly saying "This ricotta, this ricotta...") , we were full. But, knowing we weren't passing this way any time soon, we snagged a server and asked her what was her favorite pizza. She pointed to a listing toward the bottom of the menu and said "Dream."  This pizza became known to us then as "The Dream". Since then, I have never really dreamt about it, but I think about this pizza ravenously two, three times a week. 

I emailed the man himself, Franco Pepe, Prince of Caiazzo, about "the Dream". Here is what he wrote back,  

 

"I believe that the pizza you are talking about is "il sole nel piatto", which in english would sound the sun in the plate. It is a pizza that has quite a story since "il sole nel piatto" is a documentary that an italian film director, named Alfonso Postiglione, shot about neapolitan pizza. In this film four 'pizzaioli' coming from families that make pizza from generations and keep it alive as a tradition were interwied, and one of them was me! I was then asked to think about a pizza taking this film as an inspiration, so I decided to put together tastes from the costiera, as anchovies and the countryside here in Campania, as olives. This as an homage to my country. "

That country prolly has had a lot of homages to it, but none more delicious than "The Dream".

*** 

After six weeks in Italy, Nancy and I came up with list of our best dishes and best restaurants in various categories that I billed as "Tastes of the Trip". I envisioned it as an Academy Award-type of show. The big award, the equivaient of the Best Picture Oscar, would be Best Restaurant.   

The big favorite was the blockbuster Osteria Francescana, in Modena, the highest rated restaurant in all of Italy. This place has the top rating in the guidebook L'Exprsso (19.75), is tied for top in Gambero Rosso (95 points),  came in 3rd in 2013 the San Pellegrino listing of the top 50 restaurants in the world and was rated #1 in Europe by the Daily Meal website in December, 2012.  

The last time Nancy and I discussed the best restaurant of the trip award, it was a tie between (Big Sid Catlett hits the drums here)...Osteria Francesca and Pepe in Grani.   

I'd for sure go back to Osteria Francescana. It was outstanding on every front.  I'd make a reservation far in advance and plan a little trip around going there. Hey, It's 273 kilometers from Nancy's home in Panicale, Umbria  It's not a spur of the minute meal. 

But, if we were in Panicale and it was 6 p.m. and it was raining and Nancy said "Let's go to Franco Pepe's for pizza tonight", which, by the way, is 345 kilometers away,  I'd say. "Get in the car." 

We'd be driving there, rain slanting, Coltrane and Davis soothing "All of You", the rented Lancia hitting 190 kph, and Nancy'd say "We might have to wait for a table." 

So we'd wait. It's worth waiting on the Dream. 

I'm working on a dream   Though sometimes it feels so far away

I'm working on a dream   And I know it will be mine someday

- Bruce Springsteen - Working on a Dream

PEPE IN GRANI

Vico S. Giovanni Battista, 3

81013 Caiazzo (CE) Italy

T. +39 0823.862718

https://www.facebook.com/pepeingrani

Il sole nal piatto  aka The Dream of Caiazzo

In the kitchen with Franco Pepe  after the Dream

First pie at Peoe in Grani

Pizza Titans

Half a Dream  

Go Go Hong on Italian Culture

A month ago, LIz "Go Go" Hong stayed with me and Nancy Silverton in Panicale, Umbria for one week.  While Nancy was in charge of the food, I became sort of Go Go's personal  Minister of Italian Culture.*

The following is a question/answer with Go Go and Krikorian Writes on her cultural experience during what she has called "the greatest trip of her life"  

 ******************

Krikorian Writes - After being home a month, what sticks out culturally from your trip to Italy? What will you keep in your cultural spirit?

Go Go  -   Umm. That's a good question. There was some much culture going on all over Italy.  But, if I had to pick one thing, probably the Tumeric-flavored Yogurt appetizer at Cibreo in Florence.  

KW  - Well, that's more like fermented milk culture, isn't it? I was talking more about... 

Go Go -  Oh, and did you know that in Florence, the don't even call it Florence. It's called like "Fur 'n Z",  Ya know,. like it's a mink coat company. And i guess they put the "Z" on it so its kinda like "the end", ya know. Like the "last word" in fur coats.  Fur and Z. I kinda like it.  

KW -  I see. Umm, interesting take.  How about your favorite museum?  

Go Go   It might not technically be a museum in the classical sense, like the way the Beverly Center is, but the Prada Outlet was very rewarding.   

KW  - Ok.   Let's see. I  understand in Rome, Michael took you to the Spanish Steps. 

Go Go -  He took me to some steps. I don't know if they were Spanish. They might have been Mexican. You know, the way some Mexicans say they're Spanish. (At this point Go Go coughed, but as she coughed, mumbled what sounded like "Pilar".)

KW   Did you see any Caravaggio masterpieces?

Go Go   No. Baseball is not very big in Italy.   David Rosoff told me Sandy Caravaggio once pitched a perfect game, though. 

KW  Let's move on. Speaking of David, I understand you saw the public copy on display in Piazza della Signoria.

Go Go  Come again? 

KW  That's what she.. .. Forget it. The public outdoor version of Michelangelo's stature of David. Out in the piazza. The town square. You took a photo with it. Were you impressed?  

Go Go -  Oh, the nude guy. Yeah, good abs. Nice ass, too. His thing, though. It wasn't hard. I mean I guess it was hard because it was made out of metal, or ugh, clay. No, not clay because clay would like get all wet in the rain and sorta melt. Right? But, his thing was not pointing up. You understand? It was pointing down. Good thing he didn't pee. I was right under it.  

KW - It's a sta.....   Let's go on.  Let's talk about architecture. 

Go Go  That's ok. 

KW  Ok. Well, let's see. I understand Michael walked you by the Church of Santa Croce in Flore, I mean, ugh, Fur And Z.   

Go Go - You catch on quick. 

KW  -And he told you Michelangelo, Gaiileo, Rossini, Ghiberti and  several other famous people were entombed there and he asked you if you wanted to go inside to, what, pay your respects?

Go Go  Yes. 

KW What did you tell him? 

Go Go . Rest in peace.

Go Go at the Pilar Steps

Go Go at Neptune's Fountain in Piazza Navona in Rome

The Great One with Go Go Hong 

Why Chris Feldmeier Retired From Mozza

LOS ANGELES  

August 29, 2013

Barring a Joel Robuchon-like comeback,  August 27, 2013 marked the last day Chris Feldmeier worked as chef de cuisine at Osteria Mozza, a job he has had since the highly acclaimed restaurant in Hollywood South opened in 1961. 

Several people - and when I say "several", I am talking at least seven -  have asked me, knowing Chris and I are friends,  "Why? Why is Chris Feldmeier leaving Mozza?" The reasons were explained at a rye-infused farewell to Feldmeier at the Pikey this past Tuesday. For those of you unable to attend, here are the

                TOP 15 REASONS WHY BIG CHRIS  IS LEAVING MOZZA

!5. Told by executive chef Matt Molina "Either divorce Dahlia or I'll reveal our secret love affair."

14. The thrill of working at Mozza greatly diminished  since the departure of Taylor. 

13. Wear and tear on internal organs caused by being bumped into by AD

12. His intense hatred for bartenders named after World War II British field marshal. (NOTE The most famous British field marshal of WWII was Bernard Montgomery) 

11. Upset with David for charging Duke for a drink. 

10. Missing Uzma. 

9. If he read one more salumi story about Chad Colby, he would have shot him

8. Offered a job paying three times his current salary as executive chef of Nickerson Gardens. 

7. The utterly depressing realization that he would never, ever get to work side by side with Sam 

6.  Wanted to steal the thunder from Deb's farewell party tomorrow. 

5. Being paid very well by Daniel Flores to assassinate Mike Hoagland

4. Made a 100,000 bet at Caesar's Palace newly promoted Derek couldn't last a month without him.

3 Sick and tired of being called "an idiot" and being told what to do by Matt  MIchaelson.

2. Ran out of horrible things to say about Shannon Curely  

And the number one reason Chris Feldmeier is leaving mozza...

1. Leaving to spend more time with illegitimate son, Jake

White Man Named Black Is BBQ Hero at Party

UGLY DRUM BEATS OUT SOME GOOD LOOKIN' MEAT

August 25, 2013

On the occasion of Larry (Lorenzo) Silverton's 88th birthday, his daughter Gail hosted a small gathering at her Valley Village home where, as a bonus, his 25-day namesake great grandson made his first family party appearance. But, while both Lorenzos were showered with affection, they were not the only subject of effusive praise. Joining them in the glory was hired gun chef Eric Black who prepared a classic feast of barbequed pork ribs, beef brisket, beans, potato salad and  cole slaw that had everyone muttering accolades between bites. 

Black, who is white, and perhaps best known for wearing a bright red t-shirt to the Watts Towers earlier this year, is a former cook at Mozza. Black's passion is barbecue and the spread he put out at Gail Silverton's demonstrated that deliciously . The pork ribs were meaty, tender and smokey, the holy trinity of a good rib. Plus his sauce, Chicago-style he said, was outstanding. I didn't even know Chicago had a sauce, but damn, I ate a couple spoonfuls like it was a soup. 

Black said he cooked them at his apartment in Monrovia in a smoker for four and a half hours before finishing them off at Gail's backyard.  (It should be noted the Monrovia Fire Department received seven false alarms from Black's neighbors during the cooking period)

Black's company is Ugly Drum and he makes "small batch" barbecue, available for private parties and other such events. This is what he says on his website https://uglydrum.squarespace.com/#our-team 

Erik founded Ugly Drum to have an excuse to do what he does anyways...make sausage, smoke   brisket and cook more food than he can eat.  He's worked with Joe at Los Angeles restaurants for over a decade including Campanile, Literati 2, Osteria Mozza and The Spice Table.

Erik's chef de cuisine is Joe Marcos, a mixed martial artist wanted in several countries including his ancestral homeland, the Philippines, for assault.  This man is armed and dangerous so do not attempt to apprehend, but rather call the National Security Administration.   

The Ugly Drum website paints a different portrait of Marcos.  

Joe has been cooking in some of the best restaurant kitchens in Los Angeles for many years.  Besides BBQ, Joe has a real passion for the rustic and honest foods of Spanish tapas.  Last year he created a tapas bar pop-up -- "Bar Plancha" --  where he served inspired Spanish small plates at The Spice Table in Downtown Los Angeles. Great BBQ and great Spanish tapas share the same ingredients of simplicity, tradition and fun. 

The Drum might be Ugly , but the ribs are delicious.

Nancy and Eric Black, who, you may notice, has white smoke coming out of his head. 

Nancy can't even wait for a photo before she cuts in.

THE DEATH OF MANOLETE, IN PERUGIA

I recall times in my life  when the combination of what I was reading and where I was reading came together in such an extraordinary way that they were among the things I thought of whenever I heard John Coltrane's "My Favorite Things".

One such satisfying moment occurred Saturday, July 27, in the midst of the antique market at a small piazza in Perugia, the capital of Umbria, located about 30 minutes from Panicale, where I have been for the five weeks with Nancy Silvertron.  

I was there on that hot noon with Nancy and LIz "Go Go" Hong. As they shopped for tiny coffee pots, miniscule chairs  and sunglasses, I sat on a bench and read the climatic scene of "The Death of Manolete" by Barnaby Conrad,

Though surrounded by people strolling past and inspecting trinkets. I was so deeply immersed in the story of the August 28, 1947 fatal goring of the greatest bullfighter of his time that I was glad Nancy was browsing at a slow pace, even by her anti-Senna standards. 

I first heard about Manolete from my father when I was a teenager. My dad, Tony Krikorian, had never seen him, but spoke of Manolete in a way that brought him to life for me. Manolete was the greatest figure in all of Spain right around the time of Seabiscuit. and during and past World War II.  

About six months ago, I mentioned Manolete in passing to Larry Silverton, Nancy's dad. He was stunned I even knew of Manolete and he told stories about him and said I must read the book "The Death of Manolete" by this Barnaby Conrad, who Larry knew.   

I took it along to Perguia and while the girls shopped, I took a wonderful, and sad adventure to Spain.

Later, i started thinking about those rarified moments where place and book have united in my life to create lasting memories.

The last known occurrence was reading  Laura Hillenbrand's "Seabiscuit", one of my all time favorites books. I was at Philippes the Original Frenh Dip and reading the chapter  of the book that described the match race between Seabiscuit and War Admiral. Exhilaration in hardback. 

That rich L.A. setting - 1908 restaurant crowded with its world wide clientele, the five dollar glass of Havens merlot, the double dipped Lamb with swiss - and  the match race.  Talk about a daily double.   

Two other memores of book and place are even more beautiful to me,  though they were in the saddest of times. The deaths, 15 years apart, of my mom and dad. The book was the same both times, "Les Miserables". In 1987, as my mother was dying of ovarian cancer, I'd go to a park in Gardena, off Western Avenue, with a blanket, the book and a bottle of Smirnoff. Fifteen years later, as my dad was dying of lung cancer in the VA in West Los Angeles, I read Victor Hugo's masterpiece again, much of it at the bar of the Viceroy Hotel in Santa Monica.  Le Miserables will always be my favorite book, even more than "Southside".

Another memorable  book and place. "So Big" by Edna Ferber , read on the Amtrak train that runs between Fresno and Bakersfield.   That book is about a widow with a big baby who eeks out a living on a farm south of Chicago that has real hard dirt. Talk about a book that I would not be interested in, that's it. But, the writing. the storytelling was so compelling it made me realize any tale was worth reading if the writing was sublime. There is a passage in the book I read on this southbound train where  the timeline of the story jumps from the past to the present in such a wonderful fashion that I clearly remember being mesmerized. "So Big" didn't make me want to become a writer, but it did it teach me, or rather reminded me, powerfully, the pleasures reading could bring. 

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