McLAREN FORMULA 1 DRIVER MATT MOLINA DELIVERS FOUR COURSE MEAL TO NANCY'S PORCH AT 165 MPH

About four blocks away from her cell at San Quarantine, Nancy Silverton heard an unholy wail. Had all the animals escaped the zoo at Griffith Park and were charging down Western? Had a squadron of runaway Russian pilots scrambled their MiG 29s and were strafing Larchmont? Or was McLaren Formula One driver Matt Molina - who moonlights as a chef in Highland Park - making a food delivery.

It was Molina in a McLaren MC4-27 about to blast from Beverly onto Van Ness and drop, drop, drop at Nancy’s house a delivery that has been called the fastest food in America.

This food was among the best delivered to San Quarantine. It was a multi course affair, with Hippo-made foccacia, two pastas - a parpardelle with ragu and spaghetti all’amatriciana, roasted chicken and potatoes and and three , count ‘em, three carrot cakes each with a different sauce. The spaghetti was even better the next day.

With the food, considering the delivery, you woulda thought we would watch “Ford vs. Ferrari” or “Grand Prix” or that documentary abut Senna. But we stuck with Bogey and Bacall, this time in “To Have And Have Not”.

So if you want some terrific food from Hippo just call them or go online. Better yet, just whistle. You know how to whistle, don’t you'?

McLaren.jpg

HARSHEST FOOD REVIEW EVER, BIG EVIL ON THE CUISINE AND SERVICE AT L. A.'s MEN'S CENTRAL JAIL DURING PANDEMIC

I’ve read and heard my share of bad restaurants reviews from the likes of Ruth Reichl, Jonathan Gold, Michael Bauer, S.I. Virbila, Gael Greene, Jenn Harris, Russ Parsons. Kate Green and an assortment of people who fancy themselves critics. Some have expressed disgust and twisted their face into near-grotesque distortion when describing what they ate and how it was served.

But, never, and I mean never ever, has anyone put food and service down as brutally as Cleamon “Big Evil” Johnson did in a telephone call to me Monday afternoon from Men’s Central Jail in Los Angeles, the largest jail in the United States.

“I would catch another case if my cell door was unlocked because i would chase down these mutherfuckin’ trustees they let serve us the shit food,” said Johnson, 52, once of 89 Family Swan Bloods who is facing five murder charges and one attempted murder from cases in the 1990s. (Long story) “I’d chase them down the tier and beat their asses something fierce.” Then Cleamon, who I’ve known since the 1990s, unleashes his famous Big Evil laugh.

He explains why he would beat his servers who are trustees, so called because they are inmates in the jail who have gained the “trust” of the jailers.

‘I won’t even get to the shit food, yet. the service. We got Covid about to break out and they send these trustees down the tier with no masks, no gloves. Half these mutherfuckas have runny noses, they coughing, scratching their asses, Disgusting. and they serving the food.”

The County Sheriffs deputies themselves are gloved and masked up. And they even handed out one pair of gloves to inmates two weeks ago. Johnson’s big hands, with six black swollen knuckles - the result of decades of punching enemies in the face - would not be kind to a single pair for gloves for two weeks.

And now, what you critics have been waiting for, Big Evil’s review of the food at the Los Angeles Men’s Central jail.

“The food up in here is fuckin’ nasty. i don’t even know the name of half this shit It got so bad, i asked for a special diet. i didn’t even know what that meant exactly. But lately I’ve been getting what i think is chicken six times a week. This stuff is not from a kitchen. It’s straight out of a laboratory. it’s either still alive or its been dead way too long. And stink? Man, it always stinks. You literally taken a chance when you eat it.”

The other staple is franks on a tortilla. “You ever had a hot dog on a tortilla? And the other day I got nine hard tortillas. That’s it.”

Fortunately for Johnson,, he has a brother or cousin or friend who put a few bucks “on his books” and he buys “food” out of the vending machine.

Like everyone on the outside, he’s concerned about Covid.

Johnson says it’s eerie in the County these days and it feels the Corona virus moving through the tier. “All damn night, all you hear is people coughing and sneezing. i’m serious. All night long. i got a big ‘ol plastic sheet fastened to the front of my cell and my blanket tied up to the front, too.

“It’s seems like a powder key up in here just waiting to be lit. Once someone gets Covid up in here, there’s gonna be no choice but for it to just run right through this place.”

If you care to write to him address the letter as follows

Cleamon Johnson #3027306
po box 86164
terminal annex LA CA.90086

big+evil.jpg

NANCY SILVERTON OF SAN QUARANTINE BECOMES FIRST CHEF IN AMERICA TO WIN A MICHELIN STAR IN LOCKDOWN

When, on March 30, Nancy Silverton tested positive for Covid and was sentenced to lockdown at the infamous San Quarantine maximum security facility in Los Angeles, her cooking skills shut down with her.

For days, Silverton, easily one of the most beloved chefs in America, had to rely on the cooking skills of her cellie, Michael Krikorian, whose culinary resume exists entirely of being a sous chef at the Carl’s Jr on South Van Ness Avenue in the early 70s. Though confined mainly to an area once known as the Ruth Couch and now renamed Covid Corner, Silverton would issue commands that brought to mind the strict kitchens of Escoffier and Point. The words “idiot” and “stupid’ spewed from her mouth like ‘59 Dom Perignon in happier times.

So, defying orders, Nancy worked her way back to the kitchen. Though her fist meals showed some past dabs of glory, they had a sadness about them, kind of like Jerry Rice dropping a pass. or Mantle limping back to the dugout after striking out. She lacked the vibrato she once oozed

But, then. a shoulder of lamb was braised and it was obvious. the comeback of Nancy Silverton had begun.

Saturday, a prime porterhouse from Jim Cascone’s Huntington Meats in the Farmer’s Market was set on a grill. The sound, the smell. the seasoning, the taste of the meat. the excitement was back. The return had arrived full force.

By evening. word had leaked and food writers from Jenn Harris of the Los Angeles Times and Jeff Gordinier from Esquire were trying to get a Zoom reservation. Soon the critics from Gault-Millau and Michelin were calling. Michelin, wanting to be first awarded her a star, the first Lockdown awarded San Quarantine a Michelin star.

It turns out. at a high level of criticism, you don’t have to actually taste the food to rate it. Hearing a “Damn, that looks delicious” - viewed 2,851 miles away bu Ruth Reichl is way more valued than a bunch of stars or a glowing review from most critics.

Then Sunday night, Nancy roasted black cod with a tomato jam made with Chris Bianco canned Di Napoli tomatoes, Ligurian olives, garlic, fennel powder, wild oregano and served it with Armenian Labne mint yogurt/cheese.

As we ate, Turner Movie Classics played “The Hustler” on the TV. Paul Newman plays the role of Fast Eddie Felson. He shoots pool magnificently, but he has a downfall. In the end, though, Fast Eddie is back to being great.

So is Nancy

PPorter.jpg
Cod.jpg

PENCE, FAUCI SAY RALPH WAXMAN EXAGGERATED HEART BLOCKAGE TO ESCAPE HOME IN CONTROVERSIAL "STIR CRAZY' CASE

Legendary Osteria Mozza server Ralph Waxman entered Huntington Hospital in Pasadena last week complaining of severe chest pains. After several tests, Waxman said ‘They found a 95% blockage in my Left Arterial Descending artery. I was .admitted and, well, I could tell by the looks on their face I was “touch and go”.

Five days later, in a memorable and heartfelt Facebook announcement, Waxman, known as “The Dean of Servers”, thanked the Huntington staff for saving his life and said he ‘would be pushin’ up daisies” if he didn’t go the the hospital because they “found a 95% blockage in my Left Arterial Descending artery.”

But, was it really a 95% block? The White House doesn’t think so.

At the White House briefing Saturday morning. Dr. Anthony Fauci was bombarded with question about Waxman and unleashed a bombshell.

“We have a report that Waxman may have exaggerated his blockage numbers,” Fauci said. “Wax said 95%, but he may have been impaired and slurred 9.5%. He was bored at his house, like so many of us and wanted to get out. Stir Crazy. He did slur that 9.5 into a 95.”

Right then, Peter Jennings of ABC News shot back loudly with “Ralph didn’t say it. He typed it. On Facebook and Tweeter.. You can’t slur on Facebook or Tweeter.”

“Where have you been, Pete?” Fauci replied, “Oh sure you can. My moron boss slurs online every god damn day.”

At that point in the new conference, Mike “Bitch Boy Suck Ass” Pence cut in and issued the following statement. “Ralph Waxman, whose name sounds like a Jew, and who is a Democrat, was suffering from Stir Fever and simply wanted to get out of the house to protest about something.. So he lied to get into a hospital. Then he wrote that Facebook post designed to get sympathy. And it worked. He had responses from your Megans, your Lyankas. They like him, I guess. That photo of him below, he does look kinda good. but I’m not a homo. i don’t like homos I’m not a homo. I’m not. but, that photo. Let me get a copy of that.“

Ralph Waxman was relaxing today after walking three miles Friday. Today is Sunday and hopefully Ralph will be out and protesting something.

Ralph nice.jpg


MASONGSONG TO TRUMP; "SHUT YOUR PIE HOLE", DEFYING WEDDING BAN, VERONA WILL MARRY NIKKO SATURDAY

One of America’s most anticipated celebrations of 2020 was supposed to be the wedding of Verona Masongsong to Nikko Jerrel Marquez at a location in South Downtown Los Angeles.

Masongsong, a legendary Mozza employee who gained fame for eating - in silence - four Double Doubles in the Jack Warner Room during a celebration, was thrilled beyond belief that her dream wedding was becoming a reality. She had found true love with an ex-Mozza employee, Nikko Jerrel Marquez. The countdown to the wedding was down to less than two months. Acting as a turbocharger to their life together, Nancy Silverton hired Nikko to run her new joint at LAX.

Then that fucker Covid showed up. All gatherings were cancelled. Even Don Moron Trump ordered a ban to weddings. Masongsong was crushed. Her magical moment was put on hold.

But, if you know Masongsong at all. and Nikko, for that matter, you know they aren’t particularly known for following orders. So, going against Trump, who she refers to as “that li’l bitch”, Verona and Nikko announced earlier this week that their wedding would go on.

They’ll be some slight modifications The wedding list has been cut from 200 or so to four or five with the wedding couple, an officiant, a photographer and - hiding in the trees - a member of Delta Force.

When told that Trump had spoke out against their wedding at Friday’s White house press briefing, Verona said “Shut your pie hole.”

In retaliation, Mike “Closet Punk” Pence said an investigation would be launched into Nikko’s middle name. “Jerrel? Really? Jerrel sounds like a 89 Family Bloods gang member’s name.”

In support of the Verona- Nikko wedding was California Gov. Gavin Newsom and Los Angles Mayor Eric Garcetti.

“Gavin and I are both thrilled about Verona and Nikko’s wedding,” Garcetti said during a City Hall news conference Friday evening. “Our city. our state could use some happiness.”

Verona nikko.jpg



BELKIND AND FALKNER SKYROCKET IN FAMOUS ELIZABETH RANKINGS AFTER DELIVERING FOOD TO NANCY AT SAN QUARANTINE

When the 2019 rankings of the “Most Famous Elizabeths in History “ were released in January, the usual suspects - Queen Elizabeth II, Elizabeth Taylor, Elizabeth “Bewitched” Montgomery, Elizabeth Warren and Queen Elizabeth I - were on their perennial top five spots.

But, yesterday in emergency rating session released due to Covid. two newcomers had rocketed like bats out of hell to claim spots in the top five. Knocking Elizabeth Taylor and Queen Elizabeth II out of the top five were American chefs Elizabeth Falkner and Elizabeth Belkind, both of whom braved “Stay At Home’ laws to bring food to San Quarantine where Nancy Silverton was hold up in lockdown with her cellie Michael Krikorian, who is, well. lets just say he’s not exactly Fredy Girardet.

Belkind, the executive pastry chef and partner - with Lisa J Olin- of the revered Cake Money Bakery on Beverly Boulevard, had unexpectedly - and delightfully - showed up in mid-March at Mozza with 100s of sumptuous muffins for the free Restaurant Workers Relief program funded by Maker’s Mark Whiskey and distributed out of Chi Spacca.

In early April, when she learned Nancy had tested “positive’, Elizabeth B texted she would leave something on the porch bench, a practice that became known as “Drop Drop Droppin’ At Nancy’s Door” based on the 1973 Bob Dylan classic “Knock Knock Knockin on Heaven’s Door”.

An hour later, she left a basket of cakes and cookies on the porch bench and they were soon being ravaged. There was “Li’l Merri’s”, an oatmeal cream pie sandwich cookie filled with maple vanilla buttercream that, hold up, hold on. Let me repeat that. This is an oatmeal cookie filled with maple vanilla buttercream. Is that even legal? Anyway, in case it isn’t, we got rid of the evidence quickly.

There was a slew of mini cakes including a Back & White Cakewich filled with vanilla cream. Valrhona crunchy “pearls” and coated in bittersweet chocolate.

Three days later, Elizabeth Falkner. was “Drop Drop Droppin at Nancy’s Door” (Bob Dylan has just released that) with an array of delights with Spanikopita, homemade filo dough filled with feta, spinach, dandelion greens. dill, mint and parsley and pot stickers with chicken thigh meat and pork belly with ginger, scallions and a sauce made of rice vinegar, ponzu, chili and sesame. Also a risotto with asparagus, spring onion, Parmesan and chicken stock.

Falkner also brought apricot rugalasch and a two-ton caramel glob that went swimmingly well with Chad Colby’s honeycomb ice cream from Antico.

We ate well.

A spokes person for Queen Elizabeth I said while she was disappointed to be out of the Top Five Elizabeths, she understood why. “Maybe Belkind and Falkner will teach her how to cook better,” said Dahlia Narvaez, the Queen’s spokeswoman. “Or at least how to cook,”

EF.jpg

EB.jpg

AFTER TWO POSITIVE TESTS, CHEF NANCY SILVERTON TESTS NEGATIVE FOR COVID-19

On a video call Sunday with Dr. Gregg DeNicola and his wife Nurse Mary, Nancy Silverton and i were ready to hear the words “Nancy, you are still positive.” After all, we has heard them twice before.

But, Nurse Mary threw the sweetest change up ever. ‘Open the red wine.”

We let out a yell and i was legally allowed to kiss her. Two weeks and six hours ago, Mary had informed us of the bad - somehow called “positive” - test. The past two weeks we have been in the house, distracted - and actually quite entertained by old movies; “The Verdict” with Paul Newman, “Barefoot In The Park” with Robert Redford and Jane Fonda, ,“Absence of Malice” with Paul Newman and Sally Field, “Sunday in New York” with Rod Taylor and Jane Fonda, “The Big Sleep” with Humphrey Bogart, “Farewell My Lovely” with Robert Mitchum. and three Doris Day movies and several more. And, thankfully. the Sundance Channel show “The Restaurant” which got us through the first most worrisome days.

Through every viewing. we were aware that Covid could come at any time. Yet, the only symptom Nancy had was even before the first test, a severe back pain that we originally blamed on Nancy standing up for 14 hours at Mozza for the Workers’ Relief Program. As the days past, our confidence grew. Then Dr. Gregg and Nurse Mary called

So now, the coast was clear for Nancy. To a huge degree, at least. She still has be, like everyone else, extremely cautious.

Yesterday, even before the good news. was a day Nancy over and over said “I’m so lucky” especially after hearing from our friend LAPD Robbery Homicide Det. Tim Marcia about the heart wrenching tale of another LAPD detective, David Lopez, who tested positive around the same time Nancy did, and likely passed it to his wife. She died Sunday. The couple had two kids, ages 12 and 10. “I’m so lucky”

So Nancy and I and family and friends are thrilled about her news, but we are not forgetting the sorrow of so many and how fortunate we are.

NANCY TESTS GOOD.jpg

NANCY'S RETURN TO THE KITCHEN HAILED AS A SUCCESS

It was 17 days ago when Nancy Silverton made an infamous omelet that was so un-Nancy-like that she first thought something could be wrong with her. Two days earlier, an excruciating back pain - now thought to be the first real Covid symptom - was dismissed as the natural payback for standing up at Mozza 2Go for 13 hours. But, that omelet? That was a sign.

Three days later she was told by storied Nurse Practitioner Mary DeNicola that her Coivd test was positive. She was sentenced to San Quarantine. Her cooking days were put on hold. In baseball terms, you might say she was on the injured reserve.

Sunday night she returned to the mound with a lamb shoulder. seasoned for 21 hours with a spice blend she is calling Covid-10 salt, black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, cardamon coriander, Calabrian chile, Persian dried lime and smoked paprika. It was then browned and put in the oven at 300 degrees for longer than it takes to watch “The Big Sleep” with Bogart and Bacall and “The Courtship of Eddie’s Father” with Glenn Ford and Shirley Jones.

The dinner was hailed as a success. Was it Koufax returning with a no -hitter? Not quite. But it marked the very successful - and straight out beautiful - return of Nancy Silverton to the kitchen The memory of that omelet was melting away like the fat off the lamb shoulder.

comeback.jpg


NANCY SILVERTON TO ATTEMPT KITCHEN COMEBACK EASTER SUNDAY AT SAN QUARANTINE

(EDITOR’S NOTE - We here at the Mozza Tribune are - like the rest of the world - consumed with the Corona virus and the despair it has brought to Earth. Our hearts go out. These reports are in no way intended to make light of this scourge, but rather give insight to the daily life of someone who has tested positive and is hopefully an example that life - with Covid or without - goes on and still can be as wonderful and crazy as back in the day)

In most secure cell block of the notorious San Quarantine maximum security facility, an inmate in the kitchen is nervous this Easter morning. She is a chef and she is about to cook perhaps the most important meal of her life. It’s not a meal for for stars, it’s a meal to she if she is back to her normal brilliant self in the kitchen.

Sixteen days ago. Nancy Silverton made an omelet and felt something was wrong with her. it wasn’t a bad omelet, but it wasn’t her usual omelet which can make an egg hater - like Jonathan Gold - a believer. It was later classified as “a mediocre omelet” and, more perplexing, Silverton was befuddled by the haphazard way she made the dish. Three days later was told she had tested positive for Covid

Ordered to lockdown at San Quarantine, Nancy has not cooked hardly anything, having to rely on the kindness of friends and her cellie, me. Have to say Silverton and myself have eaten very well.

But, today is Nancy Silverton’s kitchen comeback.

The main course is a not so traditional Easter lamb shoulder. Last night, she dry rubbed this seven pounder from Superior Farms in Sonoma yesterday with a spice blend she is calling Covid-10 salt, black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, cardamon coriander, calabrian chile. Persian dried lime and smoked paprika.

A report on Easter at San Quarantine will appear later.

BREAKING NEWS - The lamb was placed in the oven in an orange Le Creuset braiser at 10:32 am at 300 degrees.

lamb braise.jpg